A review of the academic dye research performed by the Port Sunlight group and its coworkers over the past 15 years is presented. The work is focused on three areas: (1) substrate structure; (2) dye interactions in aqueous solution and on substrates; (3) dye degradation and products. For substrates, a detailed model of the nanoenvironment experienced by chemicals within cellulose fibre is given, showing the different environments and remarkable mobility of absorbed chemicals. Advanced nuclear magnetic resonance diffusion measurements provide the complex pathways by which compounds find their way in and out of the fibre. For dye interaction, detailed theoretical and experimental studies are reported on three model dye systems, the anionic monoazo dye Orange II, the bisazo anionic dye CI Direct Blue 1, and cationic monoazo thiazolium dyes, providing a comprehensive picture of their structure. A quantitative mechanism of dye binding to cellulose is shown. Resonance Raman provides an effective forensic tool for dye identification, even from single fibres. The products and kinetics of Orange II dye degradation by one-electron reduction in aqueous solution is given, with the identification of an indophenol dye end-product. In cellulosic materials the reduction mechanism is similar to solution, when the higher microviscosity is accounted for. Hydrolysis of thiazolium dyes occurs at both aromatic rings of the dye but on different timescales. Measurement and calculations of the electronic structures of one-electron-reduced and -oxidised dyes are presented. The mechanism of photooxidation by sunlight of azo dyes in cotton is delineated.