Effect of Cosmetic Oils on Lipstick Structure and Its Deposit

Shimizu, Morihito; Nomura, Yuta; Bui, Hy Si

doi:10.1002/9781119654926.ch2

Cited by 3 publications

(4 citation statements)

References 22 publications

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“…Once the poured mass thickened enough to allow handling, the segments in the mould were disassembled so that the product could be inserted into the appropriate packaging. Pre-heating and a slow cooling step are extremely important for a successful formulation process: slow cooling generates a structure with large lattices, while fast cooling produces a finely cross-linked lattice which significantly affects the hardness of the oil-wax system (Shimizu, et al, 2021). The obtained sticks were subjected to sensory evaluations to obtain a better understanding of the performance and consumers' perception of the product.…”

Section: Production Methods For the Formation Of A Stickmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Strategy for the Development of a New Stick Formula Without Microplastics

Frigerio,

Conti,

caruso

2023

Preprint

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Section: Production Methods For the Formation Of A Stickmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…In consequence, the desired stick hardness can be controlled by modifying the amount of wax and depends on a careful choice of oil based on the peculiar characteristics of polarity and viscosity (Shimizu, et al, 2021).…”

Section: Oil-wax Compatibility Studymentioning

confidence: 99%

Strategy for the Development of a New Stick Formula Without Microplastics

Frigerio,

Conti,

caruso

2023

Preprint

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“…In addition to sustainability, waxes pose functional and operating issues. Once the wax in lip balms is exposed to air, it gradually crystallizes and affects the viscosity and rigidity of the formulation (Shimizu et al, 2021). Given these pitfalls, it seems inevitable to substitute waxes with new ingredients to produce next-generation cosmetics.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…These chemicals endow cosmetics, especially lip balms and lipsticks with hardness, brittleness, and glossy appearance. To these waxes, vegetable oils such as olive oil, coconut oil, and jojoba oil are added as plasticizers so that additives such as colorants, flavoring agents (taste and smell), and stabilizers can be dissolved or dispersed easily (Behr & Seidensticker, 2020; Shimizu et al, 2021). In addition to plasticity, vegetable oils mainly provide moisturization and emollience to the lips.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Self‐assembled trehalose amphiphiles as molecular gels: A unique formulation to wax‐free cosmetics

Tsupko

Sagiri

Samateh

et al. 2023

J Surfact & Detergents

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Trehalose has been used as an emollient and antioxidant in cosmetics. We aimed to explore trehalose amphiphiles as oil structuring agents for the preparation of gel‐based lip balms as part of wax‐free cosmetics. This article describes the synthesis of trehalose fatty acyl amphiphiles and their corresponding oleogel‐based lip balms. Trehalose dialkanoates were synthesized by esterifying the two primary hydroxyls of trehalose with fatty acids (C4‐C12) using a facile, regioselective lipase catalysis. The gelation potential of as‐synthesized amphiphiles was evaluated in organic solvents and vegetable oils. Stable oleogels were subjected to X‐ray diffraction (XRD), thermal (DSC), and rheological studies and further used for the preparation of lip balms. Trehalose dioctanoate (Tr8), trehalose didecanoate (Tr10) were found to be super gelators as their minimum gelation concentration is ≤0.2 wt%. XRD studies revealed their hexagonal columnar molecular packing while forming the fibrillar networks. Rheometry proved that the fatty acyl chain length of amphiphiles can influence the strength and flow properties of oleogels. Further rheometry (at 25, 37, and 50 °C) and DSC studies have validated that Tr8‐ and Tr10‐based oleogels are stable for commercial applications. Tr8‐ and Tr10‐based olive oil oleogels were used for the preparation of lip balms. The preliminary results suggested that the cumulative effect of trehalose's emolliency and vegetable oil gelling nature can be achieved with trehalose amphiphiles, specifically, Tr8 and Tr10. This study has also demonstrated that Tr8‐ and Tr10‐based lip balms can be used as an alternative to beeswax and plant wax lip balms, indicating their huge potential to succeed as a new paradigm to formulate wax‐free cosmetics.

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Planteamiento de un modelo matemático de características macroscópicas de bioceras producidas del aceite de palma con interés comercial

Méndez¹,

Ramírez-Quintero²,

López-Giraldo³

et al. 2022

revion

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Las bioceras obtenidas por hidrotratamiento de aceites vegetales se utilizan en la elaboración de productos cosméticos. Existen diversos trabajos sobre la composición química de las bioceras; sin embargo, no se encuentran reportes de cómo sus propiedades macroscópicas cambian dependiendo de su composición química. Por lo tanto, este trabajo consistió en implementar modelos matemáticos predictivos para seleccionar bioceras con características deseables para aplicación en la industria cosmética. Se determinaron las propiedades macroscópicas (punto de fusión e índices de acidez, saponificación, yodo) y la composición química (ésteres cerosos, alcoholes grasos, ácidos grasos, acilglicéridos y parafinas) a 34 muestras de bioceras. Se desarrolló un análisis estadístico descriptivo que permitió organizar las bioceras según sus propiedades macroscópicas, asignando una calificación relacionada con la calidad de la muestra; en una escala sobre 4, las calificaciones variaron entre 1,5 y 3,25. También se plantearon modelos matemáticos predictivos para cada propiedad macroscópica de las bioceras en función de su composición química. Se seleccionaron cinco bioceras con mayor puntaje y se calcularon los parámetros fisicoquímicos a través de los modelos obtenidos, observándose un error del modelo menor que 6% en el punto de fusión e índice de acidez. Estas bioceras seleccionadas podrían ser empleadas en la formulación de cosméticos de interés comercial.

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Effect of Cosmetic Oils on Lipstick Structure and Its Deposit

Cited by 3 publications

References 22 publications

Strategy for the Development of a New Stick Formula Without Microplastics

Strategy for the Development of a New Stick Formula Without Microplastics

Self‐assembled trehalose amphiphiles as molecular gels: A unique formulation to wax‐free cosmetics

Planteamiento de un modelo matemático de características macroscópicas de bioceras producidas del aceite de palma con interés comercial

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