Effect of interval bouldering on hanging and climbing time to exhaustion

Medernach, Jerry Prosper; Kleinöder, Heinz; Lötzerich, H.

doi:10.1080/19346182.2015.1063643

Cited by 10 publications

(30 citation statements)

References 14 publications

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“…In addition to the varying work-to-rest ratios and force thresholds, different hold depths (10-30 mm), hold types (jug, gym bar), and grip positions (half-crimp or open-hand) have been used. The more promising tests are climbing to fatigue tests using reproducible routes or standardized walls (Medernach et al, 2015b;Baláš et al, 2021;Stien et al, 2021b). However, these tests suffer from limited research and the findings may not be generalizable to other disciplines or performance levels.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…In addition to finger-specific tasks, number of pull-ups using different holds (Vigouroux et al, 2018), and trunk muscle tests (Saeterbakken et al, 2018;Draper et al, 2021) have been used to examine climbing-related endurance. Recently, testing procedures mimicking climbing have been examined, including motorized climbing ergometers (treadwalls), bouldering, campus board, and lead climbing (Medernach et al, 2015b;Hermans et al, 2017;Baláš et al, 2021;Stien et al, 2021b). Additionally, oxygen-uptake and -saturation have recently been measured as local aerobic capacity of the finger flexors (Baláš et al, 2021).…”

Section: Climbing-specific Endurance Testsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Typically, elite climbers have used 10 mm deep rungs, whereas 14-30 mm rungs have been used for intermediate and advanced climbers. Finally, different grip positions used in climbing (slope, pinch, half-and full-crimp) have been examined in the finger hang test with the half crimp being the most frequently used grip (Baláš et al, 2012;Medernach et al, 2015b).…”

Section: Isometric Sustained Testsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The work time has varied from 5 to 10 s with relaxation times between 2 and 5 s, whereas the force threshold has ranged between 40 and 80% of MVC (Vigouroux and Quaine, 2006;MacLeod et al, 2007;Philippe et al, 2012;Michailov et al, 2018;Giles et al, 2021;Rokowski et al, 2021). Furthermore, the testing procedures include uni-and bilateral contraction in addition to extended (180 • ) (Medernach et al, 2015b) and flexed (90 • ) elbows (Vigouroux and Quaine, 2006). Of note, both climbing-specific holds with different depths (20-30 mm) and less climbing-specific handheld dynamometers have been used.…”

Section: Intermittent Testsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Since the route is difficult to standardize (hold size, steepness, distance between holds), re-producible settings have been used. For example, Medernach et al (2015b) used a 4.1 m high wall with different sized rungs (20-45mm) where the climbers had to maintain a position (4-10 s) before progressing to the next hold. More recently, climbing to failure using a treadwall was introduced and proved suitable for assessing climbing-specific endurance (Baláš et al, 2021).…”

Section: Climbing and Other Testsmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Tests and Procedures for Measuring Endurance, Strength, and Power in Climbing—A Mini-Review

Stien

Sæterbakken

Andersen

2022

Front. Sports Act. Living

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The interest in climbing is rapidly growing among professional and recreational athletes and will for the first time be included in the 2021 Tokyo Olympics. The sport has also gained increased scientific attention in the past decades. Still, recommendations for testing procedures to predict climbing performance and measure training effects are limited. Therefore, the aim of this mini-review is to provide an overview of the climbing-specific tests, procedures and outcomes used to examine climbing performance. The available literature presents a variety of tests and procedures. While the reliability of some tests has been examined, measures of validity are scarce, especially for climbing-specific endurance tests. Moreover, considering the possible combinations of climbing performance levels, disciplines, and tests, substantial gaps in the literature exist. Vague descriptions of the participants in many studies (e.g., not specifying preferred discipline, performance level, experience, and regular climbing and training volume) further limit the current knowledge and challenge comparisons across studies. Regarding contraction types, dynamic strength- and power-tests are underrepresented in the literature compared to isometric tests. Studies exploring and reporting the validity and reliability of climbing-specific tests are warranted, and researchers should strive to provide a detailed description of the study populations in future research.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Climbing-specific Endurance Testsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Isometric Sustained Testsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Intermittent Testsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Climbing and Other Testsmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Tests and Procedures for Measuring Endurance, Strength, and Power in Climbing—A Mini-Review

Stien

Sæterbakken

Andersen

2022

Front. Sports Act. Living

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Hanging ability in climbing: an approach by finger hangs on adjusted depth edges in advanced and elite sport climbers

Bergua

Montero-Marín

Gómez-Bruton³

2018

International Journal of Performance Analysis in Sport

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The Connection Between Resistance Training, Climbing Performance, and Injury Prevention

Saeterbakken,

Stien,

Pedersen

et al. 2024

Sports Med - Open

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Background Climbing is an intricate sport composed of various disciplines, holds, styles, distances between holds, and levels of difficulty. In highly skilled climbers the potential for further strength-specific adaptations to increase performance may be marginal in elite climbers. With an eye on the upcoming 2024 Paris Olympics, more climbers are trying to maximize performance and improve training strategies. The relationships between muscular strength and climbing performance, as well as the role of strength in injury prevention, remain to be fully elucidated. This narrative review seeks to discuss the current literature regarding the effect of resistance training in improving maximal strength, muscle hypertrophy, muscular power, and local muscular endurance on climbing performance, and as a strategy to prevent injuries. Main Body Since sport climbing requires exerting forces against gravity to maintain grip and move the body along the route, it is generally accepted that a climber`s absolute and relative muscular strength are important for climbing performance. Performance characteristics of forearm flexor muscles (hang-time on ledge, force output, rate of force development, and oxidative capacity) discriminate between climbing performance level, climbing styles, and between climbers and non-climbers. Strength of the hand and wrist flexors, shoulders and upper limbs has gained much attention in the scientific literature, and it has been suggested that both general and specific strength training should be part of a climber`s training program. Furthermore, the ability to generate sub-maximal force in different work-rest ratios has proved useful, in examining finger flexor endurance capacity while trying to mimic real-world climbing demands. Importantly, fingers and shoulders are the most frequent injury locations in climbing. Due to the high mechanical stress and load on the finger flexors, fingerboard and campus board training should be limited in lower-graded climbers. Coaches should address, acknowledge, and screen for amenorrhea and disordered eating in climbers. Conclusion Structured low-volume high-resistance training, twice per week hanging from small ledges or a fingerboard, is a feasible approach for climbers. The current injury prevention training aims to increase the level of performance through building tolerance to performance-relevant load exposure and promoting this approach in the climbing field.

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Effect of interval bouldering on hanging and climbing time to exhaustion

Cited by 10 publications

References 14 publications

Tests and Procedures for Measuring Endurance, Strength, and Power in Climbing—A Mini-Review

Tests and Procedures for Measuring Endurance, Strength, and Power in Climbing—A Mini-Review

Hanging ability in climbing: an approach by finger hangs on adjusted depth edges in advanced and elite sport climbers

The Connection Between Resistance Training, Climbing Performance, and Injury Prevention

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