Hanging ability in climbing: an approach by finger hangs on adjusted depth edges in advanced and elite sport climbers

Bergua, Pedro; Montero-Marín, Jesús; Gómez-Bruton, Alejandro

doi:10.1080/24748668.2018.1486115

Cited by 15 publications

(25 citation statements)

References 34 publications

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“…Besides, other factors such as psychological and mental strategy also affect the performance of rock climbing [15], [16]. Evidence shows that rock climbing performance is generally determined by the physical aspect [17], [6], in which endurance and muscle strength are influenced [18]- [23]. However, as a part of physical performance, other aspects were highlighted that prove the need to improve the performance of rock climbing (physiology, psychology, and strategy) [15].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Construction of Validity and Reliability of an Observational Instrument to Assess the Technical Execution in Lead Climbing

Ilham¹,

Tomoliyus²

2021

saj

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Background: The speed world record (WR) performance is an achievement achieved by athletes in the competitive rock-climbing category, where the athlete must complete the climbing route on a standard artificial climbing wall with a height of 15m in the shortest possible time. Purpose: This study aimed to construct and validate an observational instrument to assess technical execution in lead climbing. The instrument developed can be used to assess progress to achieve the important aspects of climbing movement methods. Design / methodology / approach: Importantly, the construction of its validity and reliability was conducted in four stages. The first stage was a literature review on the construction of the observational instrument. In the second stage, the instrument's construction was established. The content validity coefficient was determined in the third stage using Aiken's V and 7 experts with various qualifications, including the level of understanding, appropriateness of the words, and the relevance of the statement with a grading scale of 0-10. The instrument's internal validity was calculated using 20 climbers and was quantitatively tested using the product-moment correlation. In the fourth stage, instrument reliability was determined using Cronbach's Alpha reliability test. Results showed that the observational instrument has content validity with optimal internal value as well as satisfactory reliability. Conclusion: Observational instruments were valid and reliable; therefore, they can be used to assess technical execution for novice climbers in lead climbing. It allows instructors, coaches, and teachers to assess the technical execution of novice climbers specifically in lead climbing.

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Construction of Validity and Reliability of an Observational Instrument to Assess the Technical Execution in Lead Climbing

Ilham¹,

Tomoliyus²

2021

saj

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“…It should be mentioned that the intermittent testing (7:3 or 8:2) better reflects the work-relief parameter, with a mean contact time of 8.2 s in sport climbing (Michailov, 2014 ). However, the dead-hang test is frequently used in climbing research and is proven to be a valid and reliable test with a strong correlation to climbing performance (Baláš et al, 2012 ; López-Rivera and González-Badillo, 2012 , 2019 ; Medernach et al, 2015b ; Hermans et al, 2016 ; Ozimek et al, 2016 ; Bergua et al, 2018 ; Draper et al, 2020 ).…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

The Effects of 10 Weeks Hangboard Training on Climbing Specific Maximal Strength, Explosive Strength, and Finger Endurance

Hermans

Sæterbakken

Vereide

et al. 2022

Front. Sports Act. Living

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The aim of this study was to investigate the effects of 10 weeks of hangboard training (HBT) on climbing-specific maximal strength, explosive strength, and muscular endurance. In total, 35 intermediate- to advanced-level climbers (8 women and 27 men) were randomized into a hangboard training group (HBT) or a control group (CON). The HBT program consisted of two sessions of 48 min per week using the Beastmaker 1000 series hangboard, and the following application to smartphone. Both groups continued their normal climbing training routines. Pre- and post-intervention, maximal peak force, maximal average force, and rate of force development (RFD) were measured while performing an isometric pull-up on a 23 mm deep campus rung and jug holds. In addition, finger endurance was measured by performing a sustained dead-hang test on the same rung. The HBT increased peak force and average force in 23 mm rung condition, average force in jug condition, and utilization rate øl,.- in peak force to a greater extent than CON (p = 0.001–0.031, ES = 0.29–0.66), whereas no differences were detected between groups in RFD (jug or 23 mm), peak force in jug condition, utilization rate in RFD, average force or in dead-hang duration (p = 0.056–0.303). At post-test, the HBT group demonstrated 17, 18, 28, 10, 11, and 12% improvement in peak force, average force, RFD in 23 mm rung condition, average force in jug condition, utilization rate in peak force, and dead-hang duration, respectively [p = 0.001–0.006, effect size (ES) = 0.73–1.12] whereas no change was observed in CON (p = 0.213–0.396). In conclusion, 10 weeks of HBT in addition to regular climbing was highly effective for increasing maximal finger strength compared with continuing regular climbing training for intermediate and advanced climbers.

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“…The most frequently applied sustained endurance tests include the bent-arm hang test, finger hang (or dead-hang), and handgrip dynamometers using 40-80% of maximal voluntary contraction (MVC). Of note, only three studies have reported the intraclass correlations (ICC) and coefficients of variation (CV) of endurance tests (Bergua et al, 2018;Fryer et al, 2018;Draper et al, 2021). The reported ICCs and CVs have ranged from 0.881-1.0 and 0.5-18%, likely depending on the climbers' performance level.…”

Section: Isometric Sustained Testsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Tests and Procedures for Measuring Endurance, Strength, and Power in Climbing—A Mini-Review

Stien

Sæterbakken

Andersen

2022

Front. Sports Act. Living

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The interest in climbing is rapidly growing among professional and recreational athletes and will for the first time be included in the 2021 Tokyo Olympics. The sport has also gained increased scientific attention in the past decades. Still, recommendations for testing procedures to predict climbing performance and measure training effects are limited. Therefore, the aim of this mini-review is to provide an overview of the climbing-specific tests, procedures and outcomes used to examine climbing performance. The available literature presents a variety of tests and procedures. While the reliability of some tests has been examined, measures of validity are scarce, especially for climbing-specific endurance tests. Moreover, considering the possible combinations of climbing performance levels, disciplines, and tests, substantial gaps in the literature exist. Vague descriptions of the participants in many studies (e.g., not specifying preferred discipline, performance level, experience, and regular climbing and training volume) further limit the current knowledge and challenge comparisons across studies. Regarding contraction types, dynamic strength- and power-tests are underrepresented in the literature compared to isometric tests. Studies exploring and reporting the validity and reliability of climbing-specific tests are warranted, and researchers should strive to provide a detailed description of the study populations in future research.

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Hanging ability in climbing: an approach by finger hangs on adjusted depth edges in advanced and elite sport climbers

Cited by 15 publications

References 34 publications

Construction of Validity and Reliability of an Observational Instrument to Assess the Technical Execution in Lead Climbing

Construction of Validity and Reliability of an Observational Instrument to Assess the Technical Execution in Lead Climbing

The Effects of 10 Weeks Hangboard Training on Climbing Specific Maximal Strength, Explosive Strength, and Finger Endurance

Tests and Procedures for Measuring Endurance, Strength, and Power in Climbing—A Mini-Review

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