The Effects of 10 Weeks Hangboard Training on Climbing Specific Maximal Strength, Explosive Strength, and Finger Endurance

Abstract

The aim of this study was to investigate the effects of 10 weeks of hangboard training (HBT) on climbing-specific maximal strength, explosive strength, and muscular endurance. In total, 35 intermediate- to advanced-level climbers (8 women and 27 men) were randomized into a hangboard training group (HBT) or a control group (CON). The HBT program consisted of two sessions of 48 min per week using the Beastmaker 1000 series hangboard, and the following application to smartphone. Both groups continued their normal climbing training routines. Pre- and post-intervention, maximal peak force, maximal average force, and rate of force development (RFD) were measured while performing an isometric pull-up on a 23 mm deep campus rung and jug holds. In addition, finger endurance was measured by performing a sustained dead-hang test on the same rung. The HBT increased peak force and average force in 23 mm rung condition, average force in jug condition, and utilization rate øl,.- in peak force to a greater extent than CON (p = 0.001–0.031, ES = 0.29–0.66), whereas no differences were detected between groups in RFD (jug or 23 mm), peak force in jug condition, utilization rate in RFD, average force or in dead-hang duration (p = 0.056–0.303). At post-test, the HBT group demonstrated 17, 18, 28, 10, 11, and 12% improvement in peak force, average force, RFD in 23 mm rung condition, average force in jug condition, utilization rate in peak force, and dead-hang duration, respectively [p = 0.001–0.006, effect size (ES) = 0.73–1.12] whereas no change was observed in CON (p = 0.213–0.396). In conclusion, 10 weeks of HBT in addition to regular climbing was highly effective for increasing maximal finger strength compared with continuing regular climbing training for intermediate and advanced climbers.

Strength Training in Climbing: A Systematic Review

“…The effects of different training interventions were statistically compared regarding specificity of exercises, training methods, and subjects' performance level. For studies comparing a treatment to a nontreatment group (11,12,16,17,20,32,34,40), outcome values referring to maximum grip strength, climbing performance, upper-limb power and strength, and upper-limb strength endurance of the upper limbs were extracted to calculate effect sizes. The same was performed for 2 studies comparing one training method with another because one intervention was similar to conventional climbing or bouldering and these groups, thus, were as controls (28,29).…”

“…Two studies focused on beginners (16,17), 3 on recreational climbers (11,12,32), 2 on advanced competitive and noncompetitive climbers (34,40), and 5 on elite athletes (20,22,24,28,29). The percentage distribution of climbing levels among all subjects is illustrated in Figure 2.…”

“…The percentage distribution of climbing levels among all subjects is illustrated in Figure 2. One study included only women (17), 5 studies only men (16,20,28,29,40), and 6 included a mixed sample (11,12,22,24,32,34). Six studies reported that none of the subjects had been engaged in a periodized training at least 1 month before this study (22,24,28,29,32,40).…”

“…The risk of bias assessment resulted in a PEDro score of 7/7 for 5 studies (28,29,32,34,40) and a score of 6/7 for 5 studies (12,16,20,22,24). The quality of these studies was thus estimated as good.…”

“…Two of the studies (22,24) with a PEDro score of 6/7 did not meet criterion 8 of the PEDro scale because no more than 85% of the subjects originally assigned to the groups had at least 1 key outcome measured. Of the other studies rated 6/7, one (12) did not meet criterion 1 because no eligibility criteria were specified, one (16) did not meet criterion 2 because the subjects were not randomly allocated to the groups, and one (20) did not meet criterion 4 because the groups were not similar about the key prognostic indicators. The quality of 2 studies (11,17) was rated as moderate.…”