The retention of malodours, especially sweat on fabrics, is a widely discussed problem in the textile industry and science. Since a quantitative analysis of the retention of sweat odour molecules on fibres has not been addressed so far, we used liquid scintillation counting to measure the adhesion/dehesion of 14C‐labelled isovaleric acid, a lead substance of sweat odour, to knitted fabrics of comparable textile structure made of pure cotton, wool or polyester. Significant retention differences were detected, with polyester showing the highest release of isovaleric acid after 3 h and 20 h. Fabric finishes with β‐cyclodextrin enhanced odour retention on cotton and polyester considerably. To study local influences of the clothing materials on odour release, we simulated in diffusion chamber cells a fabric/human skin wear situation using an artificial skin with skin‐like composition, topology and mechanical characteristics. Unidirectional transepidermal water vapour release of the skin model modulated the odour retention. Finally, all samples were subjected to a sensory evaluation test with trained panellists using olfactometry and a non‐labelled artificial sweat containing isovaleric acid as lead substance. Again, polyester showed little retention capacities, whereas the cyclodextrin finish enhanced binding of the artificial sweat and thus reduced its perception. The phase II approach revealed that perceived malodour intensity clearly depended on the finish and fibre type. The presented data and methods provide a basis for future optimization of clothes in terms of sweat odour management in their respective end uses, e.g. sport or business activities. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.