Empirical parameterization of setup, swash, and runup

Stockdon, Hilary F.; Holman, Robert A.; Howd, Peter A.; Sallenger, Asbury H.

doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2005.12.005

Cited by 1,111 publications

(1,513 citation statements)

References 27 publications

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“…This variability is probably in large part due to the variability in exposure of the beaches involved to the deep water wave conditions. In contrast to the dependency of short-wave swash on beach face gradient, both Stockdon et al, (2006) and Senechal et al (2011) found no relationship between the infragravity swash height and beach face gradient. On the other hand Ruggiero et al (2004) found that the significant infragravity swash height was inversely related to beach gradient.…”

Section: Accepted Manuscriptmentioning

confidence: 73%

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Spectral signatures for swash on reflective, intermediate and dissipative beaches

et al. 2014

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In this paper we synthesise a large data set gathered from a wide variety of field deployments and integrate it with previously published results to identify the spectral signatures of swash from contrasting beach types. The field data set includes the full range of micro-tidal beach types (reflective, intermediate and dissipative), with beach gradients ranging from approximately 1:6 to 1:60 exposed to offshore significant wave heights of 0.5 m to 3.0 m.The ratio of swash energy in the short-wave (f>0.05 Hz) to long-wave (f<0.05 Hz) frequency bands is found to be significantly different between the three beach types. Swash energy at short-wave frequencies is dominant on reflective and intermediate beaches and swash at long-wave frequencies is dominant on dissipative beaches; consistent with previously reported spectral signatures for the surf zone on these beach types.The available swash spectra were classified using an automated algorithm (CLARA) into five different classes. The ordered classes represent an evolution in the spectrum shape, described by a frequency downshifting of the energy peak from the short-wave into the longwave frequency band and an increase in the long-wave swash energy level compared to a relatively minor variation in the short-wave swash energy level. A universally common feature of spectra from all beach-states was an 4  f energy roll-off in the short-wave frequency band. In contrast to the broadly uniform appearance of the short-wave frequency band, the appearance of the long wave frequency band was highly variable across the beachstates. A C C E P T E D M A N U S C R I P T ACCEPTED MANUSCRIPT

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Section: Accepted Manuscriptmentioning

confidence: 73%

“…Herein we define swash as the oscillations in the vertical shoreline elevation relative to the short-term mean shoreline elevation (e.g. Stockdon et al, 2006;Hughes et al, 2010). The mean shoreline elevation is determined by both the tide level and wave setup level.…”

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confidence: 99%

Spectral signatures for swash on reflective, intermediate and dissipative beaches

et al. 2014

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“…The cross-shore displacements of the rfl between November and August as observed with video cameras (∆y vid ) were compared to the displacements observed with the LiDAR system (∆y lid ). Finally, in order to analyse the potential of the video system to obtain morphological parameters on the beach in a context of risk management, beachface slopes tan β bf , particularly used in runup empirical equations [34] and numerical models [67], were also calculated on these profiles using linear regression over the swash zone. In this paper, tan β bf was calculated between the maximum water level on the beach and the beachface toe.…”

Section: Shoreline Detection and Water Elevation Modelsmentioning

confidence: 99%

LiDAR Validation of a Video-Derived Beachface Topography on a Tidal Flat

et al. 2017

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Increasingly used shore-based video stations enable a high spatiotemporal frequency analysis of shoreline migration. Shoreline detection techniques combined with hydrodynamic conditions enable the creation of digital elevation models (DEMs). However, shoreline elevations are often estimated based on nearshore process empirical equations leading to uncertainties in video-based topography. To achieve high DEM correspondence between both techniques, we assessed video-derived DEMs against LiDAR surveys during low energy conditions. A newly installed video system on a tidal flat in the St. Lawrence Estuary, Atlantic Canada, served as a test case. Shorelines were automatically detected from time-averaged (TIMEX) images using color ratios in low energy conditions synchronously with mobile terrestrial LiDAR during two different surveys. Hydrodynamic (waves and tides) data were recorded in-situ, and established two different cases of water elevation models as a basis for shoreline elevations. DEMs were created and tested against LiDAR. Statistical analysis of shoreline elevations and migrations were made, and morphological variability was assessed between both surveys. Results indicate that the best shoreline elevation model includes both the significant wave height and the mean water level. Low energy conditions and in-situ hydrodynamic measurements made it possible to produce video-derived DEMs virtually as accurate as a LiDAR product, and therefore make an effective tool for coastal managers.

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“…(ii) use of semi-empirical formulas (Stockdon, 2006) to calculate the set-up (surge due to waves'breaking) and the run-up (altitude reached by the swash). Modelisation of the 1982 storm, due to lack of measured Littoral 2010 11003-p.4 data was done after validation of the model chain with better informed events (1997 and 2007).The total water level of inundation is then compared to the topographic data (MNT IGN) to deduce the areas concerned by marine submersion, and LIDAR topobathymetric data where available.…”

Section: Hazard Assessment Within Climate Changementioning

confidence: 99%

MISEEVA : Set up of a transdisciplinary approach to assess vulnerability of the coastal zone to marine inundation at regional and local scale, within a global change context

Vinchon¹,

Baron-Yellès

Berthelier³

et al. 2011

Littoral 2010 – Adapting to Global Change at the Coast: Leadership, Innovation, and Investment

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MISEEVA (2008MISEEVA ( -2011 aims to assess coastal zone vulnerability to marine inundation by integrating the physical and socio-economical aspects at different temporal (2010, 2030 and 2100) and spatial (local to regional) scales. The Languedoc Roussillon (France) region was chosen as a pilot site, focusing on local sites from Villeneuve-lès-Maguelone to Carnon, in Hérault.It required the development of a transdisciplinary methodology to enable transfers of knowledge and promote interdisciplinary iteration of methods throughout the project.

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Empirical parameterization of setup, swash, and runup

Cited by 1,111 publications

References 27 publications

Spectral signatures for swash on reflective, intermediate and dissipative beaches

Spectral signatures for swash on reflective, intermediate and dissipative beaches

LiDAR Validation of a Video-Derived Beachface Topography on a Tidal Flat

MISEEVA : Set up of a transdisciplinary approach to assess vulnerability of the coastal zone to marine inundation at regional and local scale, within a global change context

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