Energy cost of sport rock climbing in elite performers.

Abstract

could be the result of repeated isometric contractions, particularly from the arm and forearm muscles. (Br J Sports Med 1999;33:14-18) Keywords: rock climbing; performance; oxygen uptake; heart rate; lactate Sport climbing is a discipline of rock climbing which is performed indoors and outdoors. Indoor sport climbing is characterised by gymnastic type movements on walls fitted with artificial hand and foot holds and is an internationally contested event. Outdoor sport climbing requires similar movements with the climber guarded from injury during a fall by protection fixed in the rock before ascent. This style of rock climbing and the increased popularity of climbing in recent years have contributed to an increase in the number and difficulty of rock climbing ascents.Although climbers are characterised by low body fat, exceptional power to weight ratios, 1 2 and forearm circulatory adaptations favouring the performance of isometric work, 3 the physiological factors related to sport climbing remain essentially undefined. Previous research suggests that indoor sport climbing is highly anaerobic in nature given the low fraction (∼46%) of running maximum oxygen uptake (Ṽ O 2max ) required for ascents of three to five minutes' duration. 4 However, no study has reported Ṽ O 2 in well trained climbers at diVerent climbing velocities or Ṽ O 2 as peak oxygen uptake (Ṽ O 2climb-peak ) determined during a specific incremental climbing test to exhaustion. Furthermore, no study has reported Ṽ O 2 during an outdoor sport climb or expressed Ṽ O 2 as a percentage of Ṽ O 2climb-peak .Therefore, the purpose of this study was to investigate oxygen consumption during indoor and outdoor sport climbing. During indoor climbing a rock climbing specific ergometer fitted with artificial hand/foot holds was used and climbing velocity incremented until exhaustion to determine Ṽ O 2climb-peak . During the outdoor climb oxygen uptake and the fractional use of a peak oxygen uptake (%Ṽ O 2climb-peak) were investigated. In addition, HR and blood lactate concentrations ([La b ]) were measured. Methods SUBJECTS AND STUDY DESIGNSix men and one woman volunteered as subjects and were all in good health as reported by a medical screening questionnaire. Table 1 gives descriptive characteristics of the subjects. The mean climbing experience of the group was 8.9 (SE 1.2) years, and for individuals the most diYcult outdoor ascent made without preview or fall (on sight ascent) ranged from 6b to 7a. With the numerical scale for climbing diYculty ranging from 5a (novice) to 7c (expert) (UK grading system) the subject sample comprised highly skilled climbers.On one occasion anthropometric measurements were taken, a capillary (finger prick)

Current understanding in climbing psychophysiology research

“…It is likely that this is due to the ease of data collection, potential safety issues and, possibly, the assumption that there are no physiological or psychological differences between indoor and outdoor climbing. In more general climbing research, only four other papers have collected data on natural rock (Booth, Marino, Hill, & Gwinn, 1999;Bunting, Little, Tolson, & Jessup, 1986;Bunting, Tolson, Kuhn, Suarez, & Williams, 2000;Williams, Taggart, & Carruthers, 1978). Further research is necessary in this area, as outdoor traditional and sport climbing affords unique opportunities for the study of psychophysiology and climbing performance, including decisions about the objective dangers, route finding and learning on real rock, which are not present indoors (Lewis & Cauthorn, 2002).…”

“…Whilst only five papers (Booth et al, 1999;Bunting et al, 1986Bunting et al, , 2000Hardy & Hutchinson, 2007;Williams et al, 1978) have looked at climbing outside, only Hardy and Hutchinson (2007) have examined climbing psychophysiology. Furthermore, to our knowledge, as yet there has not been any research conducted comparing climbing indoors and outdoors.…”

Changes in handgrip force and blood lactate as response to simulated climbing competition

“…Depending on climbing grade, heart rates ranged from 129 beats per minute in Sheel et al [10] studies to 176 beats per minute in Billat et al [1] investigation; the most frequently reported values being about 160 beats per minute [2,7]. During sport climbing climber's weight is supported intermittently for a considerable period of time with a predominance of isometric contraction of the upper limbs muscles.…”

“…There has been not much of research done on sport climbing comparing to the other, "traditional" sports. Biomechanical and physiological approaches have focused on finger strength [5], aerobic and anaerobic capacity of sportsmen [2,8,9] and their anthropometric characteristics [6,14].…”

Fatores determinantes do desempenho na escalada esportiva: umas das contribuições da professora Maria Augusta Kiss para o desenvolvimento das ciências do esporte no Brasil

“…Booth et al (14) adopted the same strategy when comparing data obtained in laboratory tests with the ones obtained during an easy route of rock sport climbing. Initially, a maximal ergospirometric test with ergometer specific to sport climbing was applied, during which the highest value of O 2 ( O 2 peak-climbing ), of HR (HR peak-climbing ) and of [La] after the test [La peak-climbing ] in elite climbers were measured.…”