Ethnobotanical survey of cosmetic plants used in Marquesas Islands (French Polynesia)

Abstract

BackgroundCosmetic plants and their uses have often been neglected in ethnobotanical surveys which focus mainly on plants with medicinal or food uses. Thus, this survey was carried out to specifically investigate cosmetics in a small community and to establish a cosmetopoeia, based on the model of pharmacopoeia for medicinal plants. The geographic spread of the survey covered the Marquesas Islands, one of the five archipelagos of French Polynesia (Pacific Ocean). This archipelago was also recently investigated for its pharmacopoeia.MethodsThis survey is based on individual interviews of Marquesan informants on the islands of Tahiti (Society archipelago) and Nuku Hiva (Marquesas archipelago). The methodological approach was semi-directive with open-ended questions based on cosmetic criteria (application area, cosmetic use, plant). Before each interview, researchers and the informant signed a Prior Informed Consent (PIC). Quantitative analyses were performed using basic statistics and the indice of Fidelity Level (FL).ResultsTwenty-eight informants from five of the six inhabited Marquesan islands were interviewed and yielded more than 500 cosmetic recipes. Marquesan cosmetopoeia included 79 plant taxa, of which 5% are Marquesan endemics, 23% are indigenous, 28% are Polynesian introductions and 44% are modern introductions. Among the introduced species, half were cultivated whereas the other half were weedy species. Most of the plants were abundant and only eight species were considered rare, of which four were Marquesan endemics. Main cosmetic plants were identified through informant citations and fidelity levels, and included Calophyllum inophyllum, Cananga odorata, Citrus aurantiifolia, Cocos nucifera, Curcuma longa, Gardenia taitensis, Mentha spp., Ocimum basilicum, Rauvolfia nukuhivensis and Santalum insulare var. marchionense. The most referred application areas were skin, hair and private parts whereas the main cosmetic uses were perfume, hydration, medicinal care and healing.ConclusionsThrough this survey, Marquesan cosmetopoeia was investigated in detail and uncovered a majority of introduced and abundant plants, and a minority of endemic and rare plants which required proper management to avoid future shortage. The well known perfumed coconut oil or monoi appeared as the main Marquesan cosmetic preparation either for the skin and the hair. Several plants and preparations warrant scientific investigations for their originality.

Hair Growth Activity of Three Plants of the Polynesian Cosmetopoeia and Their Regulatory Effect on Dermal Papilla Cells

“…In French Polynesia, different types of ointments, plant mixtures, are used traditionally to maintain good hygiene and beautify the skin and hair of both men and women. Previous studies of plants’ medicinal and cosmetic potential in the region have revealed a variety of uses for hair growth, skin hydration, wound healing and toiletries [ 2 , 3 , 4 ]. A former selection of eleven plants of the Polynesian cosmetopoeia was achieved by studying diverse literary sources concerning the ethno-uses of plants present in French Polynesia and their known phytochemistry data within bioactivities related to body care [ 5 ].…”

“…The nut oil obtained from C. inophyllum is used in Tahiti as hair oil to promote healthy and long hair whether on its own or mixed with coconut oil [ 8 , 9 ], while in Tonga and Samoa, the flowers of the tree are used to perfume coconut oil for scalp care [ 10 ]. The different parts of this plant, nut oil, leaves and bark, are nevertheless mainly known in the Polynesian cosmetopoeia for wound healing [ 3 , 4 ] and treating skin problems (e.g., eczema, rashes, boils, pimples, skin inflammation) [ 3 , 4 , 10 , 11 , 12 , 13 , 14 , 15 , 16 ]. Lastly, the crushed or whole leaves of B. pilosa were used for treatments to dress wounds and boils and to ease eye inflammation [ 8 , 10 , 17 ].…”

Plants used by the rural community of Bananal, Mato Grosso, Brazil: Aspects of popular knowledge

“…In developed countries, there are less ethnobotanical studies in comparison to developing countries. Some recent works include studies from Italy [3,4], from Iberian Peninsula countries [5] and from France [6]. In the latter, the research focused on plants that are used to produce cosmetics and perfumes.…”

In Vitro Hair Dermal Papilla Cells Induction by Fagraea berteroana, a Tree of the Marquesan Cosmetopoeia (French Polynesia)

“…Overall body care is an essential routine in Polynesian customs, as depicted by the confection and daily use of monoi and other natural preparations for embellishment [1][2][3]. Moreover, hair is an important physical feature in French Polynesia's society; it is the second most cited application area of cosmetics after the skin, in the Marquesas Islands [3]. As such, the imagery of Polynesians with long, luxurious, and silky dark hair is widespread, even to this day ( Figure 1, [4,5]).…”

“…(Gentianaceae), sometimes wrongly spelled Fagraea berteriana, is a tree of moderate height, naturally distributed throughout the South Pacific, except for Hawaii where it has been introduced. It is known under several names such as pualulu in Samoa, pua kenikeni in Hawaii, pua 'enana or ka'upe in the Marquesas Islands [3], or simply pua in Tahiti [8]. It produces fragrant tubular white flowers that later turn yellow and seasonally yield 5 cm-long and ellipsoid, orange fruits [9] (Figure 1).…”