Evaluation of Woven Denim Fabric Sewability based on Needle Penetration Force

Rocha

2020

Autex Research Journal

In this paper, an industrial case study comparing the use of different needles in the production of hems in towels is presented. The study aims to assess the sewability of the fabrics, quantified by needle penetration forces. The market offers an interesting range of options for the needle, regarding the geometry of the needle point, surface finishing, and sizes. However, in practice, the choice is difficult, namely due to the lack of quantitative data that may support the empirical evaluation made by the sewing technicians. The work aims to assess how the needle type and size relate to the resulting needle penetration forces. Three terry fabric structures, produced by a home textiles manufacturer, were tested using needles of different sizes, points, and coatings. Needle penetration forces were measured on a sewability tester prototype, previously designed and developed, based on an instrumented overedge sewing machine. It was found that needle penetration forces present very significant differences with small size increments, needle coating also influences forces significantly, and different needle points produce only slight differences, significant only on some of the fabrics that were tested.

Section: Effect Of Needle Size On Needle Penetration Forcessupporting

confidence: 92%

“…Finally, another method for measurement of needle penetration forces was proposed by Haghighat, Etrati, and Najar [18]. In this case, an Instron 5566 Tensile Tester is used.…”

Section: Introduction and Objectivesmentioning

confidence: 99%

Comparative Study of Needle Penetration Forces in Sewing Hems on Toweling Terry Fabrics: Influence of Needle Type and Size

Rocha

2020

Autex Research Journal

“…Previous studies showed that seam appearance and performance depend on the interrelationship of fabrics, threads, stitch types and sewing conditions [16,17,18] According to the newly development processes in clothing industry, particularly in denim garment, the seam performance of denim is important. In the sewing process, a fabric with high density, thickness and weight such as denim fabric is more phone to seam and stitch damages [19]. Breaking strength and elongation of the fabric and sewing thread had an excellent correlation with seam efficiency [20].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Investigation of Seam Performance of Chain Stitch and Lockstitch Used in Denim

Ateş¹,

Gürarda²,

Çeven³

2019

J Text Eng

Denim trouser is the most preferred garment in the clothing industry. The seam performance of the stitches of denim trouser is very important for the quality of the product. Seam perfromance of garment depend on fabric structural properties such as weave type, fabric thickness, weight, yarn density and stitch types. Seam strength and seam efficiency are two important parameters for seam performance. The purpose of this study is to determine the seam performance of the chain stitch and lockstitch used in denim trouser. For this reason, fabric strength, seam strength and seam efficiency of cotton denim woven fabrics with elastane and without elastane which are widely used in garment have been examined.

Chemistry and Technology of Natural and Synthetic Dyes and Pigments

“…On the other hand if polyester percentage is more in fabric show less resistance during sewing operation. However, the linear density of sewing thread shows insignificant effect on seam stiffness [12,24]. Different blended fabrics show significant effect on drape coefficient.…”

Section: Influence Of Fabric Parameters On Seam Qualitymentioning

confidence: 96%

“…The appearance of a seam is generally lead by the proper relationship between the size and type of thread, the stitch density and its types, and the texture and weight of the fabric [11]. Many researchers found that fabric quality parameters, such as fabric density, fabric thickness, tensile strength, extensibility, bending rigidity, and shear rigidity have extreme effect on quality of seam [12]. Different researcher gives a subjective ranking for evaluation of seam performance [13].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Review on Analysis of Seam Quality

Borse¹,

Sonawane²,

Kakde³

et al. 2020

The apparel quality largely depends on fabric quality and also on seam quality. Seam performance and appearance largely correlate with fabric characteristics, sewing-thread properties, selection of stitches and seams, and also with sewing conditions such as size of needle, sewing-thread tension, number of stitches per inch, and maintenance and operation of sewing machine. In good quality garments, functional requirements of the seam are very essential for apparel serviceability. The seam performance deteriorates the quality of garment by reducing seam strength and seam-slippage strength, seam puckering, and seam damage. Apparel durability and its esthetic performance are defined by seam quality. Seam performance is influenced by a selection of seam type with respect to stitch classes, selection of sewing threads irrespective to fabric characteristics, and different sewing process parameters.