Évolution des corps gras utilisés dans la formulation des rouges à lèvres au cours des quinze dernières années

Contribution to interplay between a delamination test and a sensory analysis of mid‐range lipsticks

“…Although it is not easy to describe such a complex product which results from a composition learnedly elaborated between various ingredients, a certain number of common characteristics meet in the various formulations of lipstick [1,3,[18][19][20][21][22][23][24]:…”

“…Thus, lipsticks need to be as efficient and effective as possible, and they have to be designed in line with the expectations of the customers such as the long‐lasting and comfort on the lips (several hours: 6–8 h), homogeneous film colour when applied to lips, glide‐on texture without feathering and pleasant fragrance. Consequently, from Table , it can be inferred that the cosmetic formulation is not static but continuously meets different strategic requirements.…”

Comparison between a wax/volatile oil mixture and vegetable butters in a long-lasting make-up formula: A rheological and structural study compared to product performance

“…Nevertheless, whatever their origin and whether used alone or in combination, film formers are in most cases used with at least one volatile oil. Among them, the most common are volatile silicones such as cyclomethicone and short-chain alkanes such as isododecane (de Clermont-Gallerande, 2006). For example, for the formulation of eyeshadows, two main routes are used: the dry route and the wet route.…”

“…Concerning the make-up products, it was decided to work on eyeshadows. Indeed, although lipsticks are today at the heart of many scientific studies (de Clermont-Gallerande, 2006;Munawiroh et al, 2017;Pan and Germann, 2019;Kang et al, 2020) because it is a flagship product in make-up, studies on eyeshadows are much rarer and could be a real lever for innovation and differentiation to revitalize eye products. In addition, eyeshadows play on the perception of eye size and bring depth to the eyes.…”

Le cas des beurres végétaux et des cires d’origine naturelle

“…Ces matières premières connaissent un regain d'intérêt auprès des formulateurs de produits cosmétiques naturels, car ils sont faciles à formuler, sont de très bons émollients et participent grandement à l'amélioration du toucher des formules [3]. Les plus connus (beurres de Karité, de mangue, du cupuaçu) rentrent dans la composition aussi bien de produits de soin que de maquillage, auxquels ils apportent onctuosité, glissant, émollience, et permettent d'augmenter l'homogénéité des phases grasses [4,5]. L'impact marketing qu'ils apportent à une formulation reste un critère important dans le choix que fera un formulateur d'utiliser une source ou une autre.…”