Expert‐based customized pattern‐making automation: Part II. Dart design

Abstract

PurposeBased on the knowledge of professional pattern makers, this paper aims to propose an expert‐based automation technique of darts generation by aligning and drawing close meshes in basic pattern in Part I. Single dart development, such as waist‐fitting dart, shoulder dart, armscye dart, side dart, and their select combination are also presented.Design/methodology/approachIn this paper, 3D garment surface is first approximated by a finite number of meshes. Patterns are developed by aligning and rotating of the flattened meshes under the constraint of overlay avoidance. The envelop areas between the developed patterns and the curved surface are dramatically reduced from 5 percent of basic pattern to below 3 percent after darts development.FindingsThe development patterns are varied in their association with the subject's body figures and the designed garment. Darts in a different location can reduce the total area difference between the flattening undevelopable surface and the original curved surface.Research limitations/implicationsAt the present stage the pattern development method cannot guarantee the uniqueness of pattern outline. Moreover, the pattern maker's knowledge inputs in this paper can only apply to the subject whose waist girth is less than hip girth in circumference.Originality/valueThe embedded pattern maker knowledge provides certain rules for pattern development from 3D design. Moreover, it is practical to be used and exported to modern 2D pattern software for further editing and revision. The same person is also used as a model after the patterns have been sewn into clothes.

Enhancing the process of prototype development in the Egyptian apparel industry

“…A Designer/Pattern makers or Creative Pattern Cutter will be working at the innovation stage at the beginning of the design and be more concerned with styling and the shape of a pattern (Stott, 2012). The pattern maker then works out a garment pattern based on the sketch for trial production several times, and thus a usable planar sloper could be constructed (Fang et al, 2008). This step requires analysis of the design sketch to classify appropriately into the correct garment type, number of pattern sections, identifying the fashion features, and finally determine its dimensions and locations.…”

“…Design analysesThe job of a pattern maker is to interpret the fashion designer's illustration into sample pattern pieces and draft them out. Garment design is often traditionally based on the designer's visualizations, in cooperation with experienced pattern-makers and tailors, and the combined knowledge and experience in various fields to realize the designer's perceptions(Fang et al, 2008). A Designer/Pattern makers or Creative Pattern Cutter will be working at the innovation stage at the beginning of the design and be more concerned with styling and the shape of a pattern(Stott, 2012).…”

Analysis of Utilization of Virtual Try on Simulation and Consumers' Preference in Apparel Online Shopping

“…관한 연구가 진행되어왔으며 그에 대한 연구들을 살펴보면, 가 상 착의 시스템의 분석 및 활용에 관한 연구 (Choi & Nam, 2009;Divivier et al, 2004;Kartsounis et al, 2003;Volino et al, 2005), 가상착의 시스템을 이용한 3차원 가상인체 및 가 상의복설계에 관한 연구 (Kim et al, 2010;Lim, 2010;Petrak et al, 2006;Yu & Xu, 2008;Yunchu & Weiyuan, 2007), 가상직물 드레이프의 모델링에 관한 연구 (Chen & Govindaraj, 1996;Ji et al, 2006;Okur & Cihan, 2002;Stylios et al, 1996;Stylios & Wan, 1999), 가상착의 시뮬레이션 프로그램을 이용한 가상모델의 착의에 관한 연구 (Apeagyei & Otieno, 2007;Hardaker & Fozzard, 1998), 의류생산공정에서 사용되는 3D 가상 시스템의 활용에 관한 연구 (Denno, 1997;Fang et al, 2008) Table 2 와 같다. 그 결과, 응답자의 63.6%(70명)이 온라인 의류쇼핑을…”

3D CAD systems for the clothing industry

“…For the fashion zone they followed the CAD technique without considering the body geometry, rather considering the aesthetic appearance of the garment. Fang et al (2008aFang et al ( , 2008b proposed a clothing design process which covers both the "3D to 2D" and "2D to 3D" approaches. They demonstrated the creation of 3D upper body garment designs on a virtual mannequin made from body scan data.…”