Extraction of Natural Fragrance Ingredients: History Overview and Future Trends

Abstract

For centuries, perfumes consisted in a combination of natural ingredients, mainly of plant origin. From the 19th century on, the advent of organic synthesis enabled the deployment of multiple synthetic olfactory notes, enriching significantly the perfumers’ portfolio. Chemistry is ever since the foundation of modern perfumery. However, sustainable‐minded consumers, massively rejecting synthetics for safety and ecological issues, engaged a global return to nature in numerous sectors, and the fragrance industry is not outdone. Sustainable extraction of natural products, making use of innovative technologies, process intensification and agro‐based solvents, constitutes the answer to develop eco‐conceived fragrant ingredients covering every olfactory family without endangering biodiversity any further. The objective of this review is to draw a clear picture of where those technological advances are today and to assess the ones that may be effectively transposed at the industrial scale tomorrow.

Comparison for the Production of Essential Oil by Conventional, Novel and Biotechnology Methods

“…The main problem with this process is that heat destroys unstable and heat-sensitive compounds or causes structural changes. Also, some essential oils are watersoluble and difficult to separate [4,7,21,22,23]. rose-scented geranium (Pelargonium sp.)…”

“…Turbo distillation reduces distillation times and energy consumption and prevents the degradation of volatile compounds compared to aqueous distillation. In fact, it is a kind of green extraction from water distillation (figure 2) [22,27]. Among the essential oils that were extracted by turbo hydro-distillation method, the extraction of essential oils from Kaempferia galangal can be mentioned [28].…”

“…Figure 5 shows a cross section of a citrus fruit (figure 5). This method is also called Expression [9,22,39]. In this physical method, at first, the rinds of the fruits are crushed, then ground and pressed to release the volatile oils in the skin.…”

“…Then the collected oil is washed with water and separated by centrifuge [40]. The figure 6 represents a schematic of the cold pressing [22]. Today the systems of cold pressing can be classified into four categories: "sfumatrici" machines and "speciale sfumatrici", "Pellatrici" machines, "FMC whole fruit process" and "Brown oil extractors (BOEs)" [9,41].…”

Review on Malaysian Goniothalamus essential oils and their comparative study using multivariate statistical analysis

“…The essential oil is normally stored within the plant's oil cells, glands, and vessels. It is released from the flowers as a fragrant fragrance, or retained in the plant's seeds, fruits, leaves, barks or roots until it gradually evaporates (Burger et al, 2019;Salleh et al, 2014b). Essential oils from aromatic and medicinal plants have been known since antiquity to possess biological activity, most notably antibacterial, antifungal and antioxidant properties (Salleh et al, 2015a(Salleh et al, , 2015b(Salleh et al, , 2015c(Salleh et al, , 2016a(Salleh et al, , 2016b(Salleh et al, , 2016c.…”