Fabric objective measurement and drape

Sanad, Reham; Cassidy, Tony

doi:10.1080/00405167.2015.1117243

Cited by 8 publications

(3 citation statements)

References 115 publications

(256 reference statements)

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“…Warp and weft extensibility were measured at 100 gf/cm stress as required by 3D garment simulation software. Shear rigidity was calculated by using the bias extension of the fabric under 5 gf/cm and bending rigidity was calculated by using the bending length and weight properties of fabrics, as described in the literature (Sanad and Cassidy, 2015;De Boos and Tester, 1994). All test procedures were repeated three times to minimize the testing errors and the average values of the measurements were reported in the results section.…”

Section: Measuring Mechanical Properties Of Fabricsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…It is described as the manner and shape of a fabric hanging freely from a support that can be either a body or pedestal (Peirce, 1930;Hu, 1997;Chu et al, 1950;Cusick, 1968;Hu, 1997). Understanding drape is important, not only because it ensures the intended appearance of final cloth, but it also helps to improve the computer simulation of clothes (Sanad and Cassidy, 2015).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Comparative analysis of drape characteristics of actually and virtually draped fabrics

Büyükaslan

Jevšnik

Kalaoğlu

2018

IJCST

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Purpose The purpose of this paper is to compare real fabric drape images and virtual fabric drape images created by a commercial software. To achieve an in-depth comparison, actual and virtual drape shape properties were considered under three categories: drape area, number of nodes and shape of folds. The results of this research are expected to be useful to improve the reality and accuracy of fabric and garment. Design/methodology/approach Five different fabrics were selected for this study. Fabrics’ mechanical properties were tested by fabric assurance for simple testing method, while drape properties were measured by a Cusick drape meter. A commercial garment simulation was used to generate virtual fabric drapes. Real fabric drape images and virtual fabric drape images were analyzed by an image analysis software and results were used to calculate drape properties. Regression analysis was performed to compare real fabric drape and virtual fabric drape properties. Findings Differences between real fabric drape and virtual fabric drape were stated clearly. Simulation software was found to be insufficient to reflect drape area. However, simulations were quite successful corresponding to the number of nodes. Only one simulation had +2 nodes than its actual counterpart. This study showed that area and node shape representations of simulation software should be improved while node numbers are sufficiently represented. Research limitations/implications There are alternative 3D garment simulation software available to the fashion business. All these companies are working on to improve their simulation reality and accuracy. Some of them are also offering various equipment to measure the fabric properties. In this study, Optitex 3D Suite was selected as the simulation software due to several reasons as explained in this paper. However, other simulation programs might also be employed to perform virtual fabric drapes. Furthermore, in this study, the drape images of five woven fabrics were compared. The fabric selection was done according to a pre-test and consequently similar fabrics were determined to be the subject of the study. However, the more the number of the fabrics, the better the comparison and eventually the better the assessment of simulation success. Therefore, it is prospected to test more fabrics with versatile fabric properties for further studies. Originality/value Drape shape was observed from three perspectives: drape area, node numbers, and node shapes. Dealing the problem from these perspectives provided an in-depth comparison of real and virtual drapes. In this study, standard deviation of peak angles was used to explain node distribution that is new to the literature to the authors’ knowledge.

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Section: Measuring Mechanical Properties Of Fabricsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Comparative analysis of drape characteristics of actually and virtually draped fabrics

Büyükaslan

Jevšnik

Kalaoğlu

2018

IJCST

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“…When the literature is analysed in details, it can be said that, different methods such as cantilever based methods (Shirley, Flexometer, FAST (Fabric Assurance through Simple Testing) instruments) [24][25][26][27]29], heart loop method [23] and KES-F (Kawabata's Evaluation System of Fabrics) [28,30] were employed to determine the bending lengths and bending rigidities of sewn samples. In addition, there is a variety of test methods, which were used to determine the bending behaviour of unsewn fabrics [31][32][33]. Despite the fact that there is a continuous popularity of comparative studies on different bending test methods for unsewn fabrics [34][35][36][37][38][39][40][41][42] till the first development of fabric bending measurement by Pierce in 1930 [43], according to the knowledge of the author, any studies have not been performed to compare the results of bending rigidites of sewn fabrics obtained by different test methods.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Comparison of Cantilever, Heart Loop and Circular Bending Test Methods in Determining the Bending Behaviours of Sewn Woven Polyester Fabrics

Kara¹

2021

Tekstil Ve Konfeksiyon

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Fabrics are cut and sewn to form 3-dimensional end-products. Bending rigidity is one of the properties that should be interpreted for sewn fabrics as it can affect drape, appearance and sensorial comfort of a garment. In the literature, there are several methods to measure the bending behaviours of fabrics. Parallelly, a variety of tests were employed for bending rigidity of sewn samples but their comparability for sewn samples are not known. In this study, 3 simple and standard test methods were used to compare the bending behaviours of fabrics with plied edge seams. For the tests, a sample set was prepared by using plain and twill woven polyester fabrics those were suitable for casual wear and sportswear. The fabrics were sewn with 3 different stitch types using 2 different stitch densities. Analysis results showed that, circular bend method had no or low correlation with cantilever and heart loop methods. Also any difference between the different types of sewn samples could not be detected by this method. In contrast, results of cantilever and heart loop methods showed low to moderate positive correlations for the bending lentghs and bending rigidities of samples.

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Woven fabric and composites architecture strategies towards ballistic impact protection

Zurina

David

2019

Proceedings of the International Engineering Research Conference - 12th Eureca 2019

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Fabric objective measurement and drape

Cited by 8 publications

References 115 publications

Comparative analysis of drape characteristics of actually and virtually draped fabrics

Comparative analysis of drape characteristics of actually and virtually draped fabrics

Comparison of Cantilever, Heart Loop and Circular Bending Test Methods in Determining the Bending Behaviours of Sewn Woven Polyester Fabrics

Woven fabric and composites architecture strategies towards ballistic impact protection

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