Fingerboard in Competitive Bouldering

Abstract

Bouldering (BL) is an independent discipline of sport climbing, with grip strength and endurance as key factors. Although the sport has grown increasingly popular and competitive, limited research has been conducted on commonly used training methods to maximize BL performance. The purpose of this study was to investigate the training effects of 4 weeks of fingerboarding (FB) on grip strength and endurance in competitive BL. Twenty-three highly advanced male boulderers (25.6 ± 4.4 y; 1.78 ± 0.05 m; 70.1 ± 5.4 kg; 6.2 ± 2.8 y climbing; 7b+ Fb mean ability) were randomly allocated to a 4-week FB (n = 11) or BL (n = 12) training regimen. Pretests and posttests (50-min duration) involved (a) handheld dynamometry (GS) to assess grip strength, (b) dead hangs (DH), and (c) intermittent finger hangs (IFH) to assess grip endurance. After the 4-week regimen, GS increased significantly in the FB group (2.5 ± 1.4 kg, p < 0.001) but not in the BL group (1.4 ± 2.8 kg, p = 0.109). The mean increase in DH ranged from 5.4 to 6.7 seconds in the FB group and was significantly (p ≤ 0.05) higher than that in the BL group (3.0-3.9 seconds). Finally, significantly higher IFH gains were observed in the FB group (p = 0.004), with a mean gain of 26 seconds, but not in the BL group (p = 0.168). These results suggest that FB is highly effective in increasing grip strength and endurance in competitive BL.

Comparison of the Effects of Three Hangboard Strength and Endurance Training Programs on Grip Endurance in Sport Climbers

“…Yet, there are examples of research in this area using dynamic methods, showing that a high number of repetitions with incomplete rest between them, similar to our IntHangs method, is more suitable for the development of endurance than a method where the intensity is maximal and the repetitions are fewer, analogous to the MaxHangs method (Campos et al, 2002; McGee et al, 1992; Robinson et al, 1995). In the only study to date that has used dead-hang training, Medernach et al (2015) investigated the effects of 4 weeks of IntHangs on grip endurance in highly advanced boulderers and they found a slightly lower mean increase range in maximum hanging time of 5.5 to 6.7 s, compared to 6.5 to 10.76 s obtained in this study by the IntHangs group after 4 weeks of training. The reasons behind this fact might be the different hang-to-rest ratio used in the mentioned study, with a hanging time of 8 s and a rest time of 4 s, combined with a lower ability to improve endurance levels in boulderers in contrast to sport climbers, due to their more explosive profile (Fanchini et al, 2013; Laffaye et., 2014).…”

“…Hanging off an edge with the fingertips (dead-hangs) (López-Rivera and González-Badillo, 2012; Watts, 2004) from a fingerboard or hangboard device is a specific exercise extensively used by climbers. To the best of our knowledge, there is only one controlled research that has tested the effect of fingerboard training (Medernach et al, 2015), although compared to the effect of bouldering training (modality consisting in climbing short and powerful routes, around 4 m high, with no rope and using landing mats for protection), not assessing different fingerboard programs. López-Rivera and González-Badillo (2012) tested fingerboard training methods using maximal strength training methods (MaxHangs), but not grip endurance methods.…”

“…In this line, intermittent dead-hangs (IntHangs), commonly known as “repeaters”, constitute a popular training method to increase grip endurance in climbers. Medernach et al (2015) examined training effects of 4 weeks of IntHangs on grip strength and endurance in competitive bouldering athletes. However, to our knowledge, there is a lack of research to date that has compared the effects of different strength and endurance methods using dead-hangs on grip endurance in climbing.…”

Determinants for success in climbing: A systematic review

“…Specially designed “high resistance-few repetitions training” or “low resistance-high repetitions training” did not result in a beneficial effect compared to regular training sessions 121 . A favourable impact of four weeks of fingerboard training (3 times per week for 150 min) compared to boulder sessions could be demonstrated regarding grip strength and dead hang time 14 . Next to this static strength training, dynamic eccentric-concentric training of the finger flexors improved the maximal achievable grade of climbing in a time-dependent manner, especially for on-sight and boulder styles 122 , 123 .…”

“…All of these climbing subcategories demand distinct physical and psychological conditions. While ice climbing requires specialized motor coordination with perceptual attunement and, hence, requires long-term experience,9, 10, 11 bouldering is thought to be based on essential strength, muscle endurance and low body fat percentage 12, 13, 14. Much research has been conducted to learn which parameters distinguish the elite from the recreational climbers in all these diverse subcategories.…”