FORMULASI DAN UJI STABILITAS SEDIAAN TONER WAJAH EKSTRAK BUAH PARE (Momordica charantia L) SEBAGAI ANTI JERAWAT DENGAN VARIASI SURFAKTAN

Abstract

Bitter gourd extract (Momordica charantia L) contains secondary metabolites such as flavonoids, alkaloids, and saponins that can be antibacterial against acne-causing bacteria (Propionibacterium acnes). Momordica charantia L., could make into facial toner preparations to prevent the emergence and worsen acne. It is formulated with various concentrations of polysorbate 20 and performs stability testing. This study aimed at the optimal formula and analyzed the variations in the concentration effect of polysorbate 20 on the bitter gourd extract facial toner preparation. Bitter gourd extract would make into facial toner preparation with variations in the concentration of polysorbate 20. The accelerated stability test with the cycling test method includes before and after organoleptic, homogeneity, viscosity, and pH tests. The organoleptic stability result shows both stable formulas had the same liquid form, clear brown color, and characteristic rose odor. All formulations are stable on homogeneity, in which the particles are evenly mixed. The Formula I viscosity value is constantly stabilized and meets the parameters, while formula II is not but meets the parameters. The pH stability values of both formulas are stable and meet the parameters. Formula I is more optimal than formula II and the difference in surfactant concentration of polysorbate 20 has no effect on organoleptic, homogeneity, and pH but will affect viscosity.

FORMULATION AND ACTIVITY TESTS OF ANTI-ACNE TONER ESSENTIAL OIL OF RED BETEL LEAF (Piper crocatum)

“…The color of the toner preparation obtained is white. The form of the toner preparation produced is liquid so it is easy to apply, (Noor et al, 2023) reported that a toner preparation that has a high viscosity can make the skin feel sticky to the skin, making it uncomfortable when using the toner. The aroma of the toner is the distinctive smell of red betel which is quite strong, it is necessary to add the right fragrance to avoid difficulties with the strong aroma of red betel.…”

“…(2) pH test, The degree of acidity (pH) test was measured using a pH meter. A good pH value for toner preparations is 4.5-6.5 (Noor et al, 2023) (3) Homogeneity Test (4) The homogeneity test is carried out by observing whether there are materials or ingredients used that are not mixed evenly or there are residues that have not dissolved. ( 5) Viscosity Test Testing the viscosity of the toner preparation was carried out using a viscometer with spindle number 1 at a speed of 60 rpm.…”

“…The toner preparation is put into a chemical glass. The spindle that has been attached is then lowered until it is submerged in the preparation and starts spinning until the spindle stops and results are obtained (Noor et al, 2023).…”

“…However, the use of these drugs can cause other side effects, such as skin irritation. Another effect of using antibiotics is drug resistance, which means drugs can no longer kill bacteria and the ability of antibiotics to kill acne-causing bacteria is reduced (Noor et al, 2023). Therefore it is necessary to do other ways to reduce the occurrence of resistance and reduce drug sensitivity to acne-causing bacteria, one of which is by using natural ingredients (Indarto et al, 2019).…”

“…Toner is a liquid cosmetic that is formulated as a substitute for facial cleansing or a complement to facial cleansing and also as a moisturizer to control sebum production and can help percutaneous absorption which acts as a barrier so as to increase skin hydration. Apart from being a facial cleanser, toner can also be added with active substances such as anti-acne or anti-acne, one of which is red betel leaf extract (Piper crocatum) (Noor et al, 2023)…”