Garment abrasion strength evaluation: a comparative methods study

Abstract

Purpose -The breaking strength compromises fabric wearing out during wear of garments and is a determining parameter in their useful life. Thus, it is intended to compare the efficacy of each method concerning the understanding of results, which is, the explanation of the phenomenon, namely through statistical models which characterize abrasion strength, measured by each method, as a function of fabric assurance by simple testing (FAST) parameters. Design/methodology/approach -The simulation of abrasion mechanism was done on Martindale wear and abrasion tester, following two ways: the weight loss and two yarns breakage methods. The average weight loss of a fabric was determined among four specimens (in mg/5,000 cy). Fabric abrasion was done against a standard wool fabric under a 12 KPa pressure. In the two yarns breakage method, the number of abrasion cycles required to break two yarns is determined according to Woolmark Company TM 112 test standard. Findings -In general, no better models to explain abrasion strength by the breakage of two yarns method are achieved when FAST variables are considered respecting those based on classical ones. However, for woollen fabrics, there is an interesting model, which gathers classical and FAST variables with higher explanation: shear rigidity and polyamide composition. This allows one to conclude that this FAST parameter performs an important role in the abrasion behaviour of fabrics. Originality/value -As the abrasion consequences cause fabric degradation, a better understanding is obtained of the different abrasion stage mechanisms, which explain both evaluation methods: breakage of two yarns and weight loss. It is intended to gather conditions for a future definition of a single and comprehensive evaluation methodology of abrasion.

Surface roughness properties of polyester woven fabrics after abrasion

“…Stress develops along the fiber from the force acting transverse to fiber axis as a result of surface friction; the magnitude of surface friction developed is directly related to the harshness of standard worsted fabric abradant (Abdullah, Blackburn, Russell, & Taylor, 2006;Backer, 1951;Mc Nally & Mc Cord, 1960). At the beginning of abrasion, fabric starts to suffer a surface appearance change resulting from alteration of pile distribution and from fiber end cuts (Miguel, Lucas, Carvalho, Silva, & Manich, 2007). As expected, abrasion first modifies the fabric surface and then affects the internal structure of fabric damaging it (Manich, De Castellar, & Sauri, 2001).…”

Exploring the Potential of Bacterial Cellulose for Use in Apparel

“…Testing methodology for abrasion resistance mimics the general wear of a garment with regards to friction and pressure during use. Abrasion testing includes the weight loss method and the two yarns breakage method [36]. The amount of pressure used on the testing material depends on the end use for such materials; 9kPa is used for apparel testing and 12kPa for upholstery, as per ASTM 4966.…”

Investigation of the Effect of Yarn Locations on Color Properties of Polyester Automotive Upholstery Woven Fabrics after Abrasion

“…At the beginning of abrasion, fabric starts to suffer a surface appearance change resulting from the alteration of pile distribution and from fiber end cuts [15]. As expected, abrasion first modifies the fabric surface and then affects the internal structure of the fabric, damaging it [16].…”