Generation of waves in Boussinesq models using a source function method

Wei, Guojian; Kirby, James T.; Sinha, Alok

doi:10.1016/s0378-3839(99)00009-5

Cited by 277 publications

(192 citation statements)

References 13 publications

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“…With the recent advances in computational technology, the use of numerical models based on the nonlinear shallow water equations (Kobayashi et al, 1989;Watson and Peregrine, 1992) and the Boussinesq approximation (Wei et al, 1999;Chen et al, 2003;Lynett, 2006;Cienfuegos et al, 2006) has become available for modelling nearshore wave transformation including wave breaking. Only recently, such numerical models have been applied to study wave transformation on fringing reefs (e.g.…”

Section: A Torres-freyermuth Et Al: Modelling Water Levels In Puertmentioning

confidence: 99%

Wave-induced extreme water levels in the Puerto Morelos fringing reef lagoon

Torres-Freyermuth¹,

Mariño‐Tapia

Coronado

et al. 2012

Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci.

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Abstract. Wave-induced extreme water levels in the Puerto Morelos fringing reef lagoon are investigated by means of a phase-resolving non-hydrostatic wave model (SWASH). This model solves the nonlinear shallow water equations including non-hydrostatic pressure. The one-dimensional version of the model is implemented in order to investigate wave transformation in fringing reefs. Firstly, the numerical model is validated with (i) laboratory experiments conducted on a physical model (Demirbilek et al., 2007) and (ii) field observations (Coronado et al., 2007). Numerical results show good agreement with both experimental and field data. The comparison against the physical model results, for energetic wave conditions, indicates that high-and low-frequency wave transformation is well reproduced. Moreover, extreme water-level conditions measured during the passage of Hurricane Ivan in Puerto Morelos are also estimated by the numerical tool. Subsequently, the model is implemented at different along-reef locations in Puerto Morelos. Extreme water levels, wave-induced setup, and infragravity wave energy are estimated inside the reef lagoon for different storm wave conditions (H s > 2 m). The numerical results revealed a strong correlation between the offshore sea-swell wave energy and the setup. In contrast, infragravity waves are shown to be the result of a more complex pattern which heavily relies on the reef geometry. Indeed, the southern end of the reef lagoon provides evidence of resonance excitation, suggesting that the reef barrier may act as either a natural flood protection morphological feature, or as an inundation hazard enhancer depending on the incident wave conditions.

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Section: A Torres-freyermuth Et Al: Modelling Water Levels In Puertmentioning

confidence: 99%

Wave-induced extreme water levels in the Puerto Morelos fringing reef lagoon

Torres-Freyermuth¹,

Mariño‐Tapia

Coronado

et al. 2012

Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci.

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“…We investigate the accuracy of the nesting scheme in a series of quasi 1-D numerical experiments employing a water flume 250 m long and 1.0 m wide with still water depth of 1.0 m. Periodic waves are generated within this flume through the linear source function derived by Wei et al (1999). Sponge layers are placed in front of both ends of the flume to prevent incoming waves from being reflected back.…”

Section: Tests On the Nesting Schemementioning

confidence: 99%

A nested-grid Boussinesq-type approach to modelling dispersive propagation and runup of landslide-generated tsunamis

Zhou

Moore

Wei

et al. 2011

Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci.

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Abstract.A tsunami generated by large-volume landslide can propagate across the ocean and flood communities around the basin. The evolution of landslide-generated tsunamis is affected by the effects of frequency dispersion and involves processes of different temporal and spacial scales. In this paper, we develop a numerical approach employing the weakly nonlinear and fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type theories and nested computational grids. The propagation in a large domain is simulated with the weakly nonlinear model in a geographical reference frame. The nearshore wave evolution and runup are computed with the fully nonlinear model. Nested grids are employed to zoom simulations from larger to smaller domains at successively increasing resolutions. The models and the nesting scheme are validated for theoretical analysis, laboratory experiments and a historical tsunami event. By applying this approach, we also investigate the potential tsunami impact on the US east coast due to the possible landslide on La Palma Island. The scenario employed in this study represents an event of extremely low probability.

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“…Furthermore, Lin and Liu (1999) proposed an internal wave generator following the mass conservation in Navier-Stokes (NS) equations and different types of the waves were generated by using this mass source function. Also, Wei et al (1999) derived a more efficient shallow-water based transfer function that related the source amplitude to the surface wave characteristics. In their work, both the mass and momentum source functions have been presented.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…In this paper, by following Wei et al (1999) and Choi and Yoon (2009) an internal wave maker algorithm based on the momentum conservation is introduced into the ISPH method. In the formulations the momentum source term derived from the regular wave theories will be added into the NS equations as an internal particle force, which changes with the time and position.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

ISPH wave simulation by using an internal wave maker

Liu

Lin

Shao

2015

Coastal Engineering

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In this paper, a non-reflection internal wave maker algorithm is included in the incompressible Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (ISPH) model for the wave simulations. A momentum source term derived from the Boussinesq equations is employed and added into the Lagrangian form of Navier-Stokes equations for the wave generations that are not affected by the reflected waves. In this work, the technical details of implementing the internal force into the ISPH equations are proposed and a series of numerical tests are carried out for the selection of relevant parameters and investigation of their sensitivities in different wave conditions. In model applications, the problems of wave propagation and reflection from a vertical wall are studied to verify the model performance in standing wave generations and the non-reflection characteristics of the internal wave maker. Furthermore, a more challenging wave decomposition process over a trap-* Corresponding author, Tel.: +86 028-85406172; Fax: +86 028-85405148 E-mail address: cvelinpz@126.com ezoid breakwater is presented, which has not been fully investigated by other similar particle-based methods. The simulation results of wave surface profile on six wave gauges agree well with the experimental results and this shows that the present model with the non-reflection internal wave maker can provide a more robust particle modeling tool for the long time simulation of wave and wave-structure interactions.

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Generation of waves in Boussinesq models using a source function method

Cited by 277 publications

References 13 publications

Wave-induced extreme water levels in the Puerto Morelos fringing reef lagoon

Wave-induced extreme water levels in the Puerto Morelos fringing reef lagoon

A nested-grid Boussinesq-type approach to modelling dispersive propagation and runup of landslide-generated tsunamis

ISPH wave simulation by using an internal wave maker

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