Glycerol and natural sugar‐derived complex modulate differentially stratum corneum water‐binding properties and structural parameters in an in vitro Raman‐desorption model

Abstract

The epidermal protective functions are closely associated with skin hydration homeostasis. The understanding of different states of water binding is a rising concept in assessing topically applied formulations and their interaction within the stratum corneum (SC). In addition to global water content, primary bound water, partially bound water, and unbound water and barrier-related lipid lateral packing and protein secondary structure can be measured by Raman spectroscopy. This study aimed to establish an in vitro SC model to evaluate differences in the efficacy of a natural sugar-derived complex in combination with glycerol and a botanical extract in modulating SC water binding and structural proteins and barrier lipids. These compounds were selected due to their water-binding and soothing properties. The SC water profiles were assessed at the surface and in 8 μm SC depth. After a 12-hour hyperhydration and subsequent product incubation the measurements were performed during a 6 hours desiccation phase. The maximal water caption and the time until reaching a steady state are measured as well as water retention and resistance against water loss. Global water content, partially bound, and unbound water, as well as lipid and protein structures were assessed with confocal Raman microspectroscopy.

A novel, multi-active emollient for the prevention of acute radiation dermatitis in breast cancer patients: a randomized clinical trial

“…The most important anti-dehydration ingredients of the emollient are Aquaxyl™ and hyaluronic acid. Aquaxyl™ stimulates collagen production, helps the skin absorb and retain moisture, and enhances the skin barrier function [23]. On the other hand, hyaluronic acid maintains tissue hydration but also plays a role in cell proliferation, differentiation, and the in ammatory response [24].…”

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“…Fluhr et al used the confocal Raman microspectroscopy method to analyze the effects on the water‐binding properties in the stratum corneum (SC) layer of the skin as a result of the application of certain topical formulations [8]. By performing this study with a natural sugar‐derived complex in combination with glycerol and a botanical extract to modulate SC water binding and structural proteins and barrier lipids, the SC water profiles were assessed at the surface and at a depth of 8 μm.…”