Grip Strength-Endurance in Ambitious and Recreational Climbers: Does the Strength Decrement Index Serve as a Feasible Measure?

Abstract

The present study investigated the time course of repetitive maximal isometric grip strength, depending on the arm position, laterality (dominant vs. non-dominant side), and climbing level. The intervention aimed to provide a feasible indicator of maximal strength-endurance in climbing. Seventeen recreational (climbing level (CL): 6.8 (SD 0.5) on the Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme (UIAA) metric scale) and eleven ambitious (CL: 8.7 (SD 0.6) UIAA metric scale) climbers (age: 27 (8) years; BMI: 21.6 (1.9) kg/m2; ape index (arm span divided by body height): 1.05 (0.18); training volume: 2.2 (1.0) h/week). Participants completed maximal isometric handgrip strength (Fmax) tests in four positions (left and right hand beside the trunk as well as left and right hand above the shoulder) plus twelve repetitive work-relief cycles, lasting 4 and 1 s where isometric strength, heart rate, and perceived exertion were recorded. Fmax differed between groups in nearly all positions. A large side × position × time × group interaction was observed for repetitive isometric grip strength (p = 0.009, ηp2 = 0.71). However, subsequent post-hoc tests did not reveal a significant difference between groups during each testing position. Additional correlation analysis between asymmetry and CL showed an inverse relationship for ambitious climbers (r = −0.71). In conclusion, the degree of grip strength decline did not relevantly differentiate between ambitious and recreational climbers. Thus, the time course of handgrip strength seems to mainly rely on maximal grip strength during the first contraction.

Validity and Reliability of a Commercial Force Sensor for the Measurement of Upper Body Strength in Sport Climbing

“…Relevant factors for successful climbing (Saul et al, 2019) were mainly introduced to elucidate predictors for climbing abilities (Watts et al, 1993;Mermier et al, 2000). Handgrip strength in general as well as fatigue and recovery of the related muscles in particular have often been subjected to climbing-related research (Watts et al, 1996;Grant et al, 2003;Quaine et al, 2003;Labott et al, 2020;Baláš et al, 2021). Thereby, different kinds of holds and their mechanical load have been analyzed (Fuss and Niegl, 2012;Morenas Martín et al, 2013;Vigouroux et al, 2019) along with upper extremity injury prevention studies (Koukoubis et al, 1995).…”