Group Classes and Measurements: Towards Made to Measure

Abstract

A group of 1700 men was studied for clothing purposes. Classification based on the HOAXY was applied to this population and only the HXY silhouettes were considered for the study. The H silhouette was the most representative with 1184 individuals belonging to this group. Using depth measurements based on the bust and waist, we proposed 3 side view groups "I" ," P" and " D": "I" is equal for both bust and waist depths, P is bust prominent compared to the waist, and D is belly prominent. This classification will be linked to garment construction. The principle is to obtain a size chart based on classical bust distribution. All the measurements involved in the construction and alteration of the garment are taken into account and a regression calculation is carried out for each measurement.Measurement "5030" is the length from the neck to across back for the detection of stooping. Regression gives the intervals to be used for standard grading. The points in away from the cloud give the proportion of individuals for whom alterations would be necessary (here stoop posture).The process was enhanced to calculate the distance of individuals for any measurement compared to the regression, in order to calculate the value of the alterations to be applied to the garment geometry. In conclusion, we demonstrate that any classification may be key in an industrial process. In addition, the population clustering is more industry dependant than any anthropological purpose.

Landmarking and Measuring for Critical Body Shape Analysis Targeting Garment Fit

“…The apparel industry has directed much effort towards understanding body shape and while methods for effective classification of visual body shape are available [14,15,16,17], they are limited in that they do not directly affect pattern engineering or garment fit [18,19,20,21,12]. This is partly because the eye can be deceived with regard to shape, as illustrated in Figure 1.…”