In this session we explain how to become confident in the virtual garment simulation. The process is based on a parallel session for creating a real garment on a real person alive, and then to simulate the same garment on her 3D avatar using Modaris 3D Fit, Lectra virtual prototyping solution. A person has been scanned using a body scanner, and then introduced into the virtual world to process a virtual try-on on her own body. The parallel development of the garment on the real body and on her avatar enhances how to judge the fitting of the garment. Results show how defects in garment construction can be detected as part of a virtual prototyping process, compared to the physical samples and relating to the clothing skill. The user then becomes confident into the virtual try on as a professional tool A symmetric process then takes place. The user develops a style, using Modaris, the 2D lectra software, simulates the try-on in the virtual environment of Madaris 3DFit before deciding to cut and assemble the physical garment and finally try it on.Benefits to the development of prototypes can be evaluated.As a result this session claims to belong to an industrial virtual prototyping.

Work on real bodies through the virtual try-on software give an important practice field. Students as well as skilled operators understand the real relationship between a garment and the body (1). As an introduction a standard garment is mounted on a virtual mannequin. Fitting is generally analyzed in a predicted result according to standard construction on standard mannequin. For our purpose, a common real person may wear a standard garment as well as garment constructed on her proper measurements. The virtual environment let the skill operator appreciate the fitting. In the case of a particular posture the 3D environment is a powerfully tool to understand the effects of the posture on the garment behavior. The 3D body measurement software of body scanners is a precious tool for understanding the future garment dimension. A standard construction let appear the defaults of fitting between the garment and the body. Different successive approaches are presented to solve the different parts of the garment involved in the draping. The interactive process gives a theoretical and practical view of the fitting result before the real confirmation by sewing the real garment. In conclusion 3D real bodies issued from body scanners allow the introduction of fashion in real case studies thanks to 3D virtual try-on software.

Being the true clones of real humans-regardless if they have been body-scanned or built from scratch-, 3D avatars are getting more attention in the fashion industry, thanks to the development of virtual try-on. With increased confidence in the virtual representation of reality (human body, garment and fabrics), fashion designers and pattern makers now work collaboratively. The 3D representation of a garment on a 3D avatar is now the base of discussion between professionals with different technical backgrounds and vocabulary-before a single piece of fabric is cut and assembled! Thanks to body-scanning capabilities, the numerous postures of a 3D avatar can facilitate the development of styles and collections. A demanding consumer can now literally give his/her own avatar-his/her body-scan-for apparel professionals to adjust garments to his/her own morphology. The 3D avatar is at center stage, boosting virtual try-ons. The lecturer will present how the 3D representation of postures, garment pieces, and fabrics are crucial in making informed decisions, before a garment is produced. Both ready-to-wear and made-to-measure market segments will benefit from a 3D-based enhanced collaboration between fashion designers and pattern makers.

The keynote speech introduces the use of 3D scans as tools in "HOAXY" styling (as used by the Fashion Formula book). This approach comes from understanding how body shape relates to silhouette shape in a garment. This classification is based on the 3 principal girths: the bust, the waist, and the hip. Designers use letters to refer to these typical shapes. The "pencil" or "tubular" shape is an H, the "pyramid" shape is an A, the classical "hourglass" is an X shape, , and so on. Body shapes are both an illusion and a reality: Illusion as appearance and reality as a volume to be dressed in live conditions. The classification will also be presented in different postures.We applied the HOAX concept to the traditional appearance of someone walking: For men, a Y shape was added while an S ("spoon") shape was required for women. However, this classification does not take heights into account.We developed the same goal to classify into HOAXY shapes, using parameters based on the 2D shape, taking height into account. We used the Rand criteria (1) statistical tool to evaluate the two classifications of the same population. As dressing people is not a static concept, we extended the study to predict changes in body volume between standing and sitting posture, including trouser posture evaluation. To predict the shape in the sitting posture, we used the standing-position HOAXY classification. Results for women and men will be detailed separately. H women mostly remain in H shape in sitting posture. However, some H women sit in an S posture where hips become wider. The benefits of being able to predict certain critical measurements are discussed as usable for different industries such as furniture or car seats and are clear for the apparel industry.

A group of 1700 men was studied for clothing purposes. Classification based on the HOAXY was applied to this population and only the HXY silhouettes were considered for the study. The H silhouette was the most representative with 1184 individuals belonging to this group. Using depth measurements based on the bust and waist, we proposed 3 side view groups "I" ," P" and " D": "I" is equal for both bust and waist depths, P is bust prominent compared to the waist, and D is belly prominent. This classification will be linked to garment construction. The principle is to obtain a size chart based on classical bust distribution. All the measurements involved in the construction and alteration of the garment are taken into account and a regression calculation is carried out for each measurement.Measurement "5030" is the length from the neck to across back for the detection of stooping. Regression gives the intervals to be used for standard grading. The points in away from the cloud give the proportion of individuals for whom alterations would be necessary (here stoop posture).The process was enhanced to calculate the distance of individuals for any measurement compared to the regression, in order to calculate the value of the alterations to be applied to the garment geometry. In conclusion, we demonstrate that any classification may be key in an industrial process. In addition, the population clustering is more industry dependant than any anthropological purpose.