Hair Matters: Toward Understanding Natural Black Hair Bias in the Workplace

Abstract

Using an inductive qualitative approach, this study examined natural Black hair bias in the workplace. An analysis of 274 comments posted to online discussion boards revealed that some Black women are embracing natural hairstyles, but many feel pressured to conform to Eurocentric hairstyles and some have experienced negative consequences stemming from their natural hairstyle choices. Within the comments, three major themes, namely,(1) hair bias, (2) identity (including self-concept and identity transition), and (3) conformity, as well as five minor themes, were identified. Based on the qualitative analysis, we identified labeling theory, identity theories (self-concept and identity transition), and the facades of conformity theory as relevant and useful in guiding future research. The key themes were integrated into a model to provide a more comprehensive story of hair bias experiences that may be useful in guiding future research.

The Influence of Colorism on the Hair Experiences of African American Female Adolescents

“…This language also implies hair that is typically Afrocentric. Hair is often a factor when discussing identity and presentability, which is consistent with African American women's experiences in the workplace (Dawson et al 2019;McGill Johnson et al 2017). Participants discussed the importance of looking good and how hair is a reflection of how they look.…”

“…Throughout the history of colonization within the US, conscious efforts to decolonize the perceptions of Black hair have occurred, evidenced by various sociopolitical movements, particularly during the 1960s and 1970s. More recently, there has been a focus on destigmatizing Black hair (Johnson and Bankhead 2014) through the natural hair movement, and specifically in the workplace and mainstream media (Dawson et al 2019). In turn, there has been an increase in scholarly literature and public attention focused on the decolonization of Black hair through research and legislative acts (Dawson et al 2019;Norwood 2018; The Joy Collective 2019).…”

“…More recently, there has been a focus on destigmatizing Black hair (Johnson and Bankhead 2014) through the natural hair movement, and specifically in the workplace and mainstream media (Dawson et al 2019). In turn, there has been an increase in scholarly literature and public attention focused on the decolonization of Black hair through research and legislative acts (Dawson et al 2019;Norwood 2018; The Joy Collective 2019). Since 2016, there has been a 34% decrease in the market value of products that relax and chemically straighten hair (McGill Johnson et al 2017), suggesting a major shift in the hair care attitudes and practices of African American women.…”

“…Black hair in America continues to be highly politicized. As a distinct characteristic, hair is a source of discrimination toward African American women in the workforce (Dawson et al 2019). This is particularly significant depending on how a woman chooses to wear her hair and may influence whether she subscribes to Eurocentric hairstyles for economic reasons, potentially creating an internal moral dilemma.…”

Tangled: Black Hair and Texturism in Ethnodrama

“…Prior studies involving Black women in higher education report hair discrimination (Bankhead & Johnson, 2014;Dawson et al, 2019;Donahoo, 2019;Mbilishaka et al, 2020), and concerns of hair self-esteem (Chapman, 2007;Ricks, 2018), but fail to reveal rich details depicting the impacts and reality of Black hair and hair texture as a Black, female professional. Narrative inquiry was selected because of its methodological ability to provide holistic perspectives connecting and ordering events to make meaning of an experience (Bruner, 1990(Bruner, , 1991Polkinghorne, 1988) that lacks empirical data, thus centering the stories of a Black woman.…”