“…H t + (uH) x + (vH) y = 0, u t + uu x + vu y + gH x = gD x v t + uv x + vv y + gH y = gD y , (1) where H(x,y,t) = η(x,y,t) + D(x,y) is the distance from the sea's surface to the bottom, η is the sea surface displacement relative to the mean sea level (wave height), D(x,y) is the water depth (which is supposed to be known at all grid points), u and v are the water flow velocity components in the x and y directions, respectively, and g is the gravity force acceleration. Note that the lower indices t, x, y in (1) indicate partial derivatives with respect to time and space variables.…”