2015
DOI: 10.7771/2327-2937.1065
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Human Factors in High-Altitude Mountaineering

Abstract: We describe the human performance and cognitive challenges of high altitude mountaineering. The physical (environmental) and internal (health) stresses are first described, followed by the motivational factors that lead people to climb. The statistics of mountaineering accidents in the Himalayas and Alaska are then described. We then present a detailed discussion of the role of decision-making biases in mountaineering mishaps. We conclude by discussing interpersonal factors, adaptation, and training issues.

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Cited by 31 publications
(25 citation statements)
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References 39 publications
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“…This broadly phenomenological [28] study uses autobiographical memory [29] to construct narratives (presented as vignettes) to explore a personal experience of cognitive dissonance and associated strategies of reduction in a specific ski mountaineering context. Not surprisingly, autobiographical memories have previously been used in analysis of high-altitude mountaineering studies or other outdoor activities to analyse actions and decision making, relationships with risk and other related psychological, social or environmental elements [1,5,6,[30][31][32][33][34]. However, many of these examples involve analyses of others, as opposed to personal, experiences.…”
Section: Methodsmentioning
confidence: 99%
See 1 more Smart Citation
“…This broadly phenomenological [28] study uses autobiographical memory [29] to construct narratives (presented as vignettes) to explore a personal experience of cognitive dissonance and associated strategies of reduction in a specific ski mountaineering context. Not surprisingly, autobiographical memories have previously been used in analysis of high-altitude mountaineering studies or other outdoor activities to analyse actions and decision making, relationships with risk and other related psychological, social or environmental elements [1,5,6,[30][31][32][33][34]. However, many of these examples involve analyses of others, as opposed to personal, experiences.…”
Section: Methodsmentioning
confidence: 99%
“…High motivation, commitment and effort are required to achieve a mountaineering objective [1][2][3][4][5][6]. However, investigation into the process of continued engagement with, and maintenance of commitment to, a mountaineering objective is less widely investigated.…”
Section: Introductionmentioning
confidence: 99%
“…At high-altitude, mountaineers must learn, develop, and refine acute situational awareness vis-à-vis both external environmental and internal bodily indicators, and monitor weather and terrain conditions in conjunction: the bodymind-world linkage instantiated. Interviewees thus expressed how crucial it was to be vigilant and to monitor closely the weather and other environmental conditions during both the summit ascent and descent (see also Wickens et al, 2015). For example, during the ascent phase, experienced participants recounted paying close attention to rock formations and other features of the mountain, which could then subsequently aid their route-finding, should the weather deteriorate or the light fade: I'm always looking over my shoulder.…”
Section: Weather Work and Somatic Attunementmentioning
confidence: 99%
“…Meta-analyses of fatigue and performance literature report consistent findings that fatigue negatively impacts several functions, but in particular visual attention, vigilance, decision-making, and other complex cognitive functions (Bourne & Yaroush, 2003). In addition, simple tasks like drinking water may have extreme consequences if not completed properly, especially in extreme environments such as those encountered during the Grand Canyon R2R hike (Wickens, Keller, & Shaw, 2015).…”
Section: Cognitivementioning
confidence: 99%