Hydrodynamics around an Artificial Surfing Reef at Leirosa, Portugal

Mendonça, Ana; Fortes, Conceição Juana; Capitão, R.; Neves, M. G.; Carmo, José Simão Antunes do; Moura, Theo

doi:10.1061/(asce)ww.1943-5460.0000128

Cited by 16 publications

(20 citation statements)

References 15 publications

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“…According to [22], the main mode of shoreline response to submerged structures can range from erosive to accretive, depending on the distance from the structure to the shoreline. This same conclusion was obtained by [25], [26], using COULWAVE numerical model on Leirosa beach, as shown in Figure 1a (case of accretion-convergent vectors), using the currents (the structure-induced circulation pattern) as an indication of the shoreline response. Figure 1b illustrates Leirosa location in Portugal.…”

Section: Introductionsupporting

confidence: 81%

“…The authors of [4] stated that, during the 1970s, the construction of the jetties in the Mondego estuary triggered major erosion problems that were later mitigated by the construction of groins along the coast, southwards Figueira da Foz, and by sand nourishment dredged from the Figueira da Foz port, in order to protect urban population and the Leirosa beach. The hydrodynamic processes that govern the development of nearshore circulation patterns around relatively simple delta-form of MFARs are explained in [22], using appropriate modules from the MIKE 21 model suite, and are also shown in [25,26] using the Boussinesq-type COULWAVE model [27].…”

Section: Characterization Of the Study Areamentioning

confidence: 99%

“…5, where SZW is the width of the natural surf zone and Sa is the distance between the apex of the structure and the undisturbed coastline [22], as shown in Figure 2. The hydrodynamic processes that govern the development of nearshore circulation patterns around relatively simple delta-form of MFARs are explained in [22], using appropriate modules from the MIKE 21 model suite, and are also shown in [25,26] using the Boussinesq-type COULWAVE model [27].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Hydrodynamics and Morphodynamics Performance Assessment of Three Coastal Protection Structures

Vieira

Pinho

Barros

et al. 2020

JMSE

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Coastal areas accommodate a great part of large metropolises as they support a great amount of economic and leisure activities. The attraction of people to coastal zones is contributing to an intense and continuous urbanization of these areas, while the ecosystems are threatened by the increase of natural extreme weather events (e.g., intensity and duration of storms, floods), which interfere with local wave climate and changes in morphological beach characteristics. Protection of coastal zones predisposed to coastline recession, due to the action of high tides, high sediment transport deficit, and high wave energy, may involve various coastal structures to reduce or at least to mitigate coastal erosion problems. Many of the current coastal protections (notably groins, seawalls, and emerged breakwaters) were built with a single purpose, which was to protect at all costs without environmental or economic concerns, especially maintenance costs, or the negative consequences that such structures could cause up to considerable distances along the coast. The current concept of integrated coastal zone management presupposes studies involving other types of concerns and more actors in the decision-making process for the implementation of coastal works. In this context, multifunctional structures emerge and are increasingly frequent, such as the so-called multifunctional artificial reefs (MFARs), with the aim of improving leisure, fishing, diving, and other sporting activities, in addition to coastal protection. MFARs are in fact one of the latest concepts for coastal protection. Behind the search for more efficient and sustainable strategies to deal with coastal retreat, this study focused on a comparison between the performance of two traditional coastal protection solutions (submerged detached breakwater and emerged detached breakwater) and an MFAR on a particular coastal stretch. In order to analyse the hydro- (wave height and wave energy dissipation) and morphodynamics (sediment accumulation and erosion areas, and bed level) of the structures and beach interactions, two numerical models were used: SWAN (Simulation WAves Nearshore) for hydrodynamics and XBeach for hydrodynamics and morphodynamics. In addition, a comparison between SWAN and XBeach hydrodynamic results was also performed. From the simulations conducted by SWAN and XBeach, it can be concluded that amongst all structures, the emerged detached breakwater was the most efficient in reducing significant wave heights at a larger scale due to the fact that it constituted a higher obstacle to the incoming waves, and that, regarding both submerged structures (detached breakwater and the MFAR), the MFAR presented a more substantial shadow zone. Regarding morphodynamics, the obtained results presented favourable tendencies to sediment accretion near the shoreline, as well as at the inward areas for the three structures, especially for the emerged detached breakwater and for the MFAR in both wave directions. However, for the west wave direction, along the shoreline, substantial erosion was observed for both structures with more noticeable values for the emerged detached breakwater. For all the northwest wave direction scenarios, no noticeable erosion areas were visible along the shoreline. Overall, considering the balance of erosion and accretion rates, it can be concluded that for both wave predominance, the submerged detached breakwater and the MFAR presented better solutions regarding morphodynamics. The MFAR storm wave condition performed in XBeach indicated substantial erosion areas located around the structure, which added substantial changes in the bed level.

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Section: Introductionsupporting

confidence: 81%

Section: Characterization Of the Study Areamentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Hydrodynamics and Morphodynamics Performance Assessment of Three Coastal Protection Structures

Vieira

Pinho

Barros

et al. 2020

JMSE

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“…The proposed structure for Leirosa was tested for two reef geometries with different reef angles (45 and 66°) [25,26]. Wave data were obtained from a DATAWELL directional wave buoy located about 5 km off the coastline, position 40° 03′ 22″ N 8° 57′ 22″ W, at 25 m water depth.…”

Section: Prospects For Future Accommodation In Coastal Areasmentioning

confidence: 99%

Coastal Adaptation: Past Behaviors, Contemporary Management, and Future Options

Carmo¹

2020

Coastal and Marine Environments - Physical Processes and Numerical Modelling

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In the recent past, coastal public works solutions were generally designed as engineering problems. By that time, prior to the 1980s, the primary goal of coastal works projects was to maximize safety, taking into account only engineering knowledge and existing economic constraints. Today, concerns are no longer limited to safety; lifestyle and quality of life have become essential ingredients in building a successful coastal works project. Other aspects of the project are also important, such as environmental impact, attractiveness, and sustainability. These additionalcomplexities are further aggravated by other pieces of the puzzle that need to be integrated into the overall design, such as the non-engineering and non-science aspects. A synthesis of recent concerns regarding coastal public works projects has, in fact, become much more difficult for engineers to manage due to new assumptions of value, social acceptance, and sustainability of these projects. In this context, it is common knowledge that decision-making on a coastal issue should be based on criteria such as technical effectiveness, costs, benefits, implementation, and monitoring. This chapter addresses coastal issues using a dual perspective of meeting current needs and ensuring future sustainability. Contemporary adaptation measures and future accommodation options are also discussed.

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“…The numerical results obtained by the model are the time series of the free surface elevation, the two velocity components, u and v, and the wave breaking areas ( Figure 5). Results of this simulation are described in [29], including the observed phenomena, such as "along the reef, an increase of the wave height is observed, in opposition to the situation without the reef, owing to the decrease of the depth in the reef zone. Moreover, owing to the increase in wave heights, the wave breaking occurs earlier (and in general over the reef) in comparison with the situation without a reef.…”

Section: Research Study Using Coulwave Modelmentioning

confidence: 99%

Modeling of Wave Propagation from Arbitrary Depths to Shallow Waters – A Review

Carmo¹

2015

New Perspectives in Fluid Dynamics

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Numerical models are a useful instrument for studying complex superposition of wave-wave and wave-current interactions in coastal and estuarine regions and to investigate the interaction of waves with complex bathymetries or structures built in nearshore areas. Moreover, since their applications are significantly less expensive and more flexible than the construction of physical models, they are a convenient tool to support design. The ability of the standard "oussinesq and Serre or Green and Naghdi equations to reproduce these nonlinear processes is well known. However, these models are restricted to shallow water conditions, and addition of other terms of dispersive origin has been considered since the s, particularly for approximations of the "oussinesq-type. To allow applications in a greater range of ν / , other than shallow waters, where ν is the water depth at rest and λ is the wavelength, a new set of Serre-type equations, with additional terms of dispersive origin, is developed and tested with the available data and with a numerical solution of a "oussinesq-type model, also improved with dispersive characteristics. Δx-plicit and implicit methods of finite-difference are implemented to solve both approximations of "oussinesq and Serre types with improved dispersive characteristics. " finite element method is also implemented to solve an extension of a "oussinesq-type model that takes into account wave-current interactions. "pplication examples to solve real-world problems are shown and discussed. The performances of both HΓ models are compared with experimental data of very demanding applications, namely ξ a highly nonlinear solitary wave propagating up a slope and reflecting from a vertical wall and ξξ a periodic wave propagating in intermediatedepth waters upstream a trapezoidal bar, followed by very shallow waters over the bar, and again in intermediate-depth water conditions downstream.

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Hydrodynamics around an Artificial Surfing Reef at Leirosa, Portugal

Cited by 16 publications

References 15 publications

Hydrodynamics and Morphodynamics Performance Assessment of Three Coastal Protection Structures

Hydrodynamics and Morphodynamics Performance Assessment of Three Coastal Protection Structures

Coastal Adaptation: Past Behaviors, Contemporary Management, and Future Options

Modeling of Wave Propagation from Arbitrary Depths to Shallow Waters – A Review

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