Increasing accuracy of rock‐climbing techniques in novice athletes using expert modeling and video feedback

Abstract

Several studies have examined the efficacy of behavior analytic coaching strategies in sports to increase performance fluency. Rock climbing is a multifaceted sport requiring mastery of several complex behavior chains in order to successfully navigate climbing surfaces. To date, most investigations have focused on the physiological aspects of rock climbing, as opposed to training specific rock-climbing movements. In this replication and extension, researchers used a multiple baseline design across skills to examine an expert video modeling plus video and verbal feedback training package on foundational rock-climbing skills of novice adult climbers. Results demonstrated that all participants showed an increase in accurate performance for all three skills that were targeted in the intervention.

Utility of video analysis and expert modelling for technique development in novice sport climbers: A randomized controlled study

“…Using a single highly experienced coach, however, prevents us from extending our findings to others, especially less experienced coaches, where the effect of adding video analysis and expert modelling could result in more (or less) substantial improvements. Furthermore, the results of the present study support the use of video analysis and expert modelling when training novice climbers – at least for some techniques – and in that respect extend preliminary observations by Walker and colleagues, 18 suggesting that such augmented feedback manner can facilitate climbing technique acquisition in novice sport climbers. Although significant benefits were only observed for the high step, these data collectively warrant further investigation of the utility and applicability of these combined approaches in climbing, particularly in more complex and prolonged tasks as well as with more advanced (better-trained) individuals.…”

“…A similar approach of attaching expert scores to the performance of some skill has been used in sports science literature across various sports. 18,51 For example, Born and colleagues 51 derived a 6-point scoring system to evaluate the execution of each stroke in tennis, considering the sum over five different attempts of each stroke as an outcome to be used in the analysis. Also, as mentioned previously we opted not to use the recently developed tool from Taylor and colleagues 31 as we aimed to assess the isolated (single) movements as opposed to the prolonged climbing movement.…”

“…Both, video analysis and expert modelling were conducted using a tablet device with the Dartfish Express (www.dartfish.com version 7.5.11229), a video application that has previously been used in sports performance and sports medicine research and enables video recording and analysis as well as expert video modelling via side-by-side playback of different videos at modified speeds. 18,29,30 All participants were familiarized with the whole process of video analysis and expert modelling using the employed Dartfish Express setup before the first experimental session by the expert coach. The experimental group participants first watched a muted video of their climbing on a tablet device (e.g.…”

“…16 Furthermore, previous research suggests that task-related information is particularly beneficial for more complex tasks as compared to simple tasks. 17 Given the complexity of climbing movement, requiring the synchronized use of all extremities to successfully perform the given task 9,18 optimizing and or augmenting feedback seems crucial to facilitate the learning process.…”

“…19,26 Even though the potential of behaviour analytic technology in climbing has been discussed previously, 27 little empirical evidence exists regarding its utility. The only study to date on the topic in climbing was conducted by Walker and colleagues 18 and aimed to investigate the role of video analysis and expert video modelling combined with verbal feedback in promoting accurate target skill performance in three novice climbers. They showed that the participants exhibited an increase in performance accuracy for selected techniques following a training period.…”