We present the first machine learning approach to the termination analysis of probabilistic programs. Ranking supermartingales (RSMs) prove that probabilistic programs halt, in expectation, within a finite number of steps. While previously RSMs were directly synthesised from source code, our method learns them from sampled execution traces. We introduce the neural ranking supermartingale: we let a neural network fit an RSM over execution traces and then we verify it over the source code using satisfiability modulo theories (SMT); if the latter step produces a counterexample, we generate from it new sample traces and repeat learning in a counterexample-guided inductive synthesis loop, until the SMT solver confirms the validity of the RSM. The result is thus a sound witness of probabilistic termination. Our learning strategy is agnostic to the source code and its verification counterpart supports the widest range of probabilistic single-loop programs that any existing tool can handle to date. We demonstrate the efficacy of our method over a range of benchmarks that include linear and polynomial programs with discrete, continuous, state-dependent, multi-variate, hierarchical distributions, and distributions with undefined moments.