Kinematic analysis of the speed climbing event at the 2018 Youth Olympic Games

Legreneur, Pierre; Rogowski, Isabelle; Durif, T.

doi:10.1080/10255842.2020.1714907

Cited by 9 publications

(23 citation statements)

References 3 publications

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“…The recent research conducted in this area indicate differences between climbing velocity and produced kinetic energy depending on actual position-on the route during climbing (Legreneur et al, 2018(Legreneur et al, , 2019. Consequently the climbing time depends on many kinetic and kinematic factors like mean climbing velocity, ability to accelerate in the spots where holds and steps configuration decreases, climber's velocity, and technical skills.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Predicting Performance in Speed Climbing: Accuracy of the Force-Velocity Test on a Cycle Ergometer

Krawczyk

Pociecha

Sordyl

et al. 2021

SIE

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The present study examined the validity of the force-velocity (F-V) mechanical parameters of the lower limbs as a predictors of the competitive performance in junior male speed climbing. The second aim was to evaluate F-V characteristics in competitive speed climbers in the junior male category. Ten junior male speed climbers (age: 18±0.5 years; BH: 174.7±4.5 cm; BW: 66.4±6.6 kg; with mean best climbing time from the competition BCT: 7.29±0.66 s) were participants in the research. All they were participants in the Youth European Cup in speed climbing. F-V characteristics were measured using a cycle ergometer test according to the Vandewalle’s protocol. To evaluate of the validity between BCT (criterion) and mechanical parameters (practical measures) from F-V test a standard error of the estimate (expressed as a raw and standardized typical error, TE) and correlation coefficients (rx,y) were used. Moreover, the validity of BCT as a potentially predictor of final competition rank (as a criterion for BCT) was evaluated. Additionally the mean value and standard deviation were calculated for all measured variables. Validity of the BCT as a competition place predictor was largely overestimated (TE=0.73 and rx,y=0.81, p p≤0.05). Accuracy of the BCT prediction for somatic and mechanical variables were very largely error biased. The standardized values of TE for these variables were: 1.93÷7.25. The rx,y were in the range of -0.18 to -0.46. The level of the mechanical variables from the F-V cycle ergometer as a predictors of the BCT in speed climbing may be largely error biased. Application of the cycle ergometer F-V test of prediction BCT values in speed climbing may have low practical value. Moreover, BCT variable may be a poor predictor of the final competition result. Coaches should take these suggestions into account during preparations to speed climbing competitions.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Predicting Performance in Speed Climbing: Accuracy of the Force-Velocity Test on a Cycle Ergometer

Krawczyk

Pociecha

Sordyl

et al. 2021

SIE

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“…A review of the scientific literature in the field of kinematic analysis of athlete climbing performance identified several relevant reports in which climber performance was measured using video devices. The first report, by the team of Legreneur et al [6] included a kinematic analysis of climbing runs during the finals of the 2018 Youth Olympic Games in Rio de Janeiro. These authors, using video footage (Sony RX10 III camera, with a frame rate of 30 fps -frames per second), presented an analysis of BMC (Body Mass Centre) velocity changes in the following parts of the run: 1) the acceleration zone (holds nr 01−09), 2) from hold nr 09 to the first dyno (hold nr 18), 3) from hold nr 18 to the second dyno (hold nr 29), and 4) the final part of the road (Fig.…”

Section: Reviewmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…These authors found differences between boys and girls in terms of total running time, times needed to reach holds 9, 18 and 29 and geometric entropy index. These authors (Legreneur et al [6]) also indicated that the efficiency of athletes may depend on the ability to limit lateral BMC movements, maintain high speeds during acceleration and minimize speed loss during acceleration after the dyno moves.…”

Section: Reviewmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Another study, by Reveret et al [8], used two video recorders (with a sampling rate of 30 fps) attempted to analyse the climbing run in three dimensions (3D) by Direct Linear Transformation (DLT) [8]. Legreneur et al [6] conducted a study of the changes in the level of mechanical energy generated by the hip joint during speed−climbing. A video recorder (frame rate 30 fps) was used as a measurement tool.…”

Section: Reviewmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Computer-Aided Methods for Analysing Run of Speed Climbers

Pieprzycki¹,

Mazur²,

Krawczyk³

et al. 2023

Preprint

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The continuously developing project aims to build an informatics system enabling analysis of spatial and temporal parameters of movement activities occurring in the sport of speed climbing. The monitoring system (climbing information speed system – CISS) is to be used for conducting comprehensive scientific research in the field of speed climbing. The system enables the evaluation of the training process of climbers at various levels of competition. The study analysis was based on video. The video recording with a camera positioned at a short distance (10 m) from the wall. The marker was positioned closest to the centre of mass (gravity) BMC. Results: development of a system for data collection and analysis of the climbing run based on video recording (application of the Kanade-Lucas-Tomasi (KLT) algorithm). Our results showed that used devices can measure a wide range of specific internal and external variables during speed climbing. Some of the analyzed parameters were significantly correlated with speed climbing time. These results could be a theoretical basis for future research and for training program’s preparation.

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“…For this purpose, Ref. [ 11 ] studied recorded runs of the Youth Olympic Games in 2018 with classic video analysis tools and manual marking of specific body points. The precision of such a labeling process is limited and therefore highly bounded to errors.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Analysis of Competition and Training Videos of Speed Climbing Athletes Using Feature and Human Body Keypoint Detection Algorithms

Pandurevic

Draga

Sutor

et al. 2022

Sensors

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Compared to 25 years ago, the climbing sport itself has changed dramatically. From a rock climbing modification to a separation in three independent disciplines, the requirements to athletes and trainers increased rapidly. To ensure continuous improvement of the sport itself, the usage of measurement and sensor technology is unavoidable. Especially in the field of the discipline speed climbing, which will be performed as a single discipline at the Olympic Games 2024 in Paris, the current state of the art of movement analysis only consists of video analysis and the benefit of the experience of trainers. Therefore, this paper presents a novel method, which supports trainers and athletes and enables analysis of motion sequences and techniques. Prerecorded video footage is combined with existing feature and human body keypoint detection algorithms and standardized boundary conditions. Therefore, several image processing steps are necessary to convert the recorded movement of different speed climbing athletes to significant parameters for detailed analysis. By studying climbing trials of professional athletes and the used techniques in different sections of the speed climbing wall, the aim among others is to get comparable results and detect mistakes. As a conclusion, the presented method enables powerful analysis of speed climbing training and competition and serves with the aid of a user-friendly designed interface as a support for trainers and athletes for the evaluation of motion sequences.

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Kinematic analysis of the speed climbing event at the 2018 Youth Olympic Games

Cited by 9 publications

References 3 publications

Predicting Performance in Speed Climbing: Accuracy of the Force-Velocity Test on a Cycle Ergometer

Predicting Performance in Speed Climbing: Accuracy of the Force-Velocity Test on a Cycle Ergometer

Computer-Aided Methods for Analysing Run of Speed Climbers

Analysis of Competition and Training Videos of Speed Climbing Athletes Using Feature and Human Body Keypoint Detection Algorithms

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