Increasing media attention of and progress in competitive climbing demand for novel solution in sport analysis to accompany and contribute to the evolution of climbing. We present a holistic approach to acquire movements in sport climbing. Knowledge on force and corresponding body motion helps to understand technique, performance and might even lead to injury prevention during training. Our system allows detection of peaks in force on each climbing hand and foot hold while recording the associated body position and motion. To achieve this, we equipped each hold with a three-axis force sensor and combined this with a three-dimensional markerless motion capture system based on a depth camera. Existing methods to determine finger strength and other parameters such as temperature are employed to ensure comparable and repeatable results. In addition, pre-assesement of athletes will be used to evaluate inter- and intra-individual variability among athletes.

Compared to 25 years ago, the climbing sport itself has changed dramatically. From a rock climbing modification to a separation in three independent disciplines, the requirements to athletes and trainers increased rapidly. To ensure continuous improvement of the sport itself, the usage of measurement and sensor technology is unavoidable. Especially in the field of the discipline speed climbing, which will be performed as a single discipline at the Olympic Games 2024 in Paris, the current state of the art of movement analysis only consists of video analysis and the benefit of the experience of trainers. Therefore, this paper presents a novel method, which supports trainers and athletes and enables analysis of motion sequences and techniques. Prerecorded video footage is combined with existing feature and human body keypoint detection algorithms and standardized boundary conditions. Therefore, several image processing steps are necessary to convert the recorded movement of different speed climbing athletes to significant parameters for detailed analysis. By studying climbing trials of professional athletes and the used techniques in different sections of the speed climbing wall, the aim among others is to get comparable results and detect mistakes. As a conclusion, the presented method enables powerful analysis of speed climbing training and competition and serves with the aid of a user-friendly designed interface as a support for trainers and athletes for the evaluation of motion sequences.

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