Methods for quantitative evaluation of force and technique in competitive sport climbing

Pandurevic, Dominik; Sutor, Alexander; Hochradel, Klaus

doi:10.1088/1742-6596/1379/1/012014

Cited by 8 publications

(7 citation statements)

References 5 publications

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“…Sports performance depends on an athlete's technique, motor performance and physical fitness (body dimensions, sport-specific and general fitness capacities) [23]. Therefore, advancements in the technique can influence the full exploitation of sports potential.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Sport-specific performances in elite youth sport climbers; gender, age, and maturity specifics

Gilić

Vrdoljak

2023

Biomedical Human Kinetics

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Study aim: The increase in the number of professional climbers led to the development of climbers since early age. Therefore, the average age of elite climbers has decreased over the last decade. Consequently, age and maturity specifics should be investigated with the influential factors in climbing. This research aimed to investigate the forearm muscle strength in youth sport climbers and determine the gender, age, and maturity status as factors of influence on forearm muscle performance in elite youth climbers. Materials and methods: This research included 18 elite sport climbers (Croatian National team members), divided into two age groups: younger (aged 13–15 years) and older (aged 16–18 years). Variables included anthropometric indices (body mass, body height, body fat percentage, ape index), handgrip strength, and climbing-specific forearm strength. Results: Climbers did not differ between age groups in the studied variables. Also, no significant correlations were found among anthropometric/body-built indices and forearm muscle performances, with age and maturity offset. However, when gender stratified, there were associations between forearm capacity in sitting position and maturity offset in girls (r = 0.73; p < 0.05) but not in boys. Conclusion: Results could be explained by the assumption that each subsequent generation is better than the previous one. Also, the associations between performance variables and biological age in girls are probably related to girls’ earlier maturation and specificity of sports selection. Forearm muscle capacities are a crucial determinant of success in sports climbing, and a good assessment of these muscle groups could serve as a tool for sport-specific selection.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Sport-specific performances in elite youth sport climbers; gender, age, and maturity specifics

Gilić

Vrdoljak

2023

Biomedical Human Kinetics

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“…Performance assessment N o studies body worn [15]- [17], [28]- [39] [14]- [16], [28]- [33], [35]- [45] 21 embedded [46]- [49] [50]-[60] 14 external [40], [46], [61] [30], [39], [40], [55], [60]- [67] 13…”

Section: Activity Recognitionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…• velocity between two holds [50] • shock spike magnitude [50] • contact force magnitude [50]- [52], [59], [60] • peak force normalized to body weight [58] • mean resultant force [59] • number of load changes [59] • center of pressure [52], [54] • contact time [50], [51], [57], [59] • smoothness factor [51] • impulse [51], [59] • friction coefficient [51], [54] • Hausdorff dimension [51], [53] • foot load [44], [55], [56] Route previewing and route finding performance…”

Section: Fluencymentioning

confidence: 99%

“…of body mvt. coordination patterns [64] fluency [30], [38], [41], [62], [65]- [67] motion capture system fluency [39], [55], [63] hold-limb contact performance [ pressure sensor (insole), accelerometer (on top of a shoe) speed, hold-limb contact performance [44] pressure sensor (insole) hold-limb contact performance [55], [56] capacitive sensors (holds) hold-limb contact performance [38], [57] force transducers (holds) hold-limb contact performance [50]- [52], [54], [59], [60] load cells (holds) hold-limb contact performance [58] body-worn IMUs (wrists, feet, hip) traction, immobility, hold change, postural regulation, hold gripping HC exploration index [16], [32] [30], [33], [34] var. of body mvt.…”

Section: ) Explorationmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Sensor-Based Activity Recognition and Performance Assessment in Climbing: A Review

2022

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In the past decades, a number of technological developments made it possible to continuously collect various types of sport activity data in an unobtrusive way. Machine learning and analytical methods have been applied to flows of sensor data to predict the conducted sport activity as well as to calculate key performance indicators. In that scenario, researchers started to be interested in leveraging pervasive information technologies for sport climbing, thus allowing, in day-to-day climbing practice, the realization of systems for automatic assessment of a climber's performance, detection of injury risk factors, and virtual coaching. This article surveys recent research works on the recognition of climbing activities and the evaluation of climbing performance indicators, where data have been acquired with accelerometers, cameras, force sensors, and other types of sensors. We describe the main types of sensors and equipment adopted for data acquisition, the techniques used to extract relevant features from sensor data, and the methods that have been proposed to identify the activities performed by a climber and to calculate key performance indicators. We also present a classification taxonomy of climbing activities and climbing performance indicators with the aim to unify the existing work and facilitate comparison of different methods. Moreover, open problems that call for new approaches and solutions are here discussed. We conclude that there is considerable scope for further work, particularly in the application of recognition techniques to problems involving different climbing activities. We hope that this survey will assist in the translation of research effort into intelligent environments that climbers will benefit from.

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“…Existing systems, however, were designed for competitive sports or they were used under laboratory conditions. Strain gauges, force torque sensors and capacitive sensors were employed to analyse the interaction with holds on the climbing wall, but they have the disadvantage that they have to be integrated into the wall setup, see [1,[9][10][11][12][13].…”

Section: Related Workmentioning

confidence: 99%

Camera-based climbing analysis for a therapeutic training system

Richter

Beltrán

Heinkel

2020

Current Directions in Biomedical Engineering

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In view of therapeutic applications, climbing motion analysis has gained increased importance to avoid movements that are prone to cause injuries and to motivate the climber by means of gamification. To date, there remains need to investigate analysis methods for feedback generation that do not require body contact and that can be easily integrated in the climbing setup. Therefore, this study proposes an camera-based approach for contact-less motion analysis that localises the climber’s centre of mass (COM) and derives relevant parameters, such as fluency, force and distance to the wall, from the temporal COM analysis.

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Methods for quantitative evaluation of force and technique in competitive sport climbing

Cited by 8 publications

References 5 publications

Sport-specific performances in elite youth sport climbers; gender, age, and maturity specifics

Sport-specific performances in elite youth sport climbers; gender, age, and maturity specifics

Sensor-Based Activity Recognition and Performance Assessment in Climbing: A Review

Camera-based climbing analysis for a therapeutic training system

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