La culture culinaire du Kosovo : changement et continuité

Abstract

Cet article traite de la culture alimentaire kosovare sous l’angle des habitudes, des préférences et des choix. En se fondant sur des études de cas, il propose une brève analyse des liens que le partage de la nourriture permet de tisser dans un ensemble plus vaste de relations sociales. Une analyse de la culture alimentaire menée dans le contexte de la « vie quotidienne », avec une approche de bas en haut, bottom‑up , du changement culturel, ne peut qu’enrichir l’anthropologie de l’Europe du Sud‑Est. Cette ethnographie de l’« ordinaire » nous éclaire sur le changement et la transition dans les sociétés postsocialistes. Dans le Kosovo d’après‑guerre, les changements politiques, économiques et sociaux ont élargi les possibilités de choix en introduisant une grande variété de nouveaux produits alimentaires. Or il semble bien que, dans le contexte domestique, les goûts et les préférences alimentaires n’aient pas beaucoup changé.

Staging and Performing Tradition in Kosova Restaurants

“…Recent research shows that, in general, cultural and social identities in Kosova are constructed and shaped through a constant process of change, negotiation, and performance (Krasniqi 2014;Luci 2014;Canolli 2017). In attempting to keep up with the changes, restaurants and cafés became quintessential models of negotiation between common discourse categories including 'tradition ' and 'modernity', 'local' and 'global', 'ours' and 'theirs', 'European' and 'Oriental'. More than anything, restaurants served as stages to display, invent, celebrate, perform and consume tradition in order to legitimise and perform identity.…”

“…Recently, the focus has shifted and, employing a bottom-up approach, is becoming more anthropological. The focus today is on commonalities and concentrates on eliciting the meaning of social relations as practiced in the context of daily life and identity negotiation (Krasniqi 2014;Luci 2014;Canolli 2017;Latifi 2018;Schwandner-Sievers and Klinkner 2019). Although food is not a common subject of research, there are several studies highlighting the importance of examining food culture in Kosova as another way to discuss social relationships and objectifications of identity building in the everyday context (Kadriu 2009;Canolli 2017;.…”

“…The focus today is on commonalities and concentrates on eliciting the meaning of social relations as practiced in the context of daily life and identity negotiation (Krasniqi 2014;Luci 2014;Canolli 2017;Latifi 2018;Schwandner-Sievers and Klinkner 2019). Although food is not a common subject of research, there are several studies highlighting the importance of examining food culture in Kosova as another way to discuss social relationships and objectifications of identity building in the everyday context (Kadriu 2009;Canolli 2017;. It is evident that food has only recently appeared in the ethnography notebooks of anthropologists who research post socialist Eastern European as well as South Eastern European countries (Caldwell 2007;Metzo 2009;Mincite 2011;Shectman 2009;Neuburger 2017;Shkodrova 2019).…”