Laboratory investigation on tsunami run-up

Gedik, Nuray; İrtem, Emel; Kabdasli̇, S.

doi:10.1016/j.oceaneng.2004.10.013

Cited by 60 publications

(22 citation statements)

References 20 publications

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“…Petti and Longo, 2001;Cowen et al, 2003;Gedik et al, 2005;Shin and Cox, 2006;Sou et al, 2010;Rivillas-Ospina et al, 2012). Large-scale wave flume experiments have studied sand suspension processes in the swash zone Caceres and Alsina, 2012), interactions between surf and swash bed dynamics , the effects of long waves, wave groups and random waves on surf and swash bed dynamics (Baldock et al, 2011) and beach groundwater effects on swash sediment transport (Masselink and Turner, 2012).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Intra-swash hydrodynamics and sediment flux for dambreak swash on coarse-grained beaches

O’Donoghue

Kikkert

Pokrajac

et al. 2016

Coastal Engineering

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The paper reports on dambreak-type swash experiments in which intra-swash hydrodynamics and sediment flux are measured for swash on a coarse sand beach and a gravel beach. Flow velocity and depth are measured using PIV and LIF respectively; the intra-swash sediment flux is measured using sediment traps. Comparison of measured hydrodynamics with the immobile, permeable bed experiments of Kikkert et al. (2013) indicate that bed mobility impacts on the swash hydrodynamics, reducing the maximum run-up by approximately 8% for both beaches, compared to the maximum run-up on the corresponding immobile beach. The measured intra swash sediment flux at a given location is characterised by high flux at the moment of bore arrival, followed by rapid decay during uprush, becoming zero at some time before flow reversal. For the gravel beach, the backwash sediment flux is negligibly small, while for the sand beach the backwash flux increases slowly as the flow accelerates down the beach, and peaks at about the time of maximum backwash velocity. Intraswash sediment flux calculated using the Meyer-Peter and Müller bed load transport formula, with measured hydrodynamics as input and bed shear stress estimated using both the Swart and Colebrook formulae, are within a factor 2 of the measured intra-swash flux. The agreement between the calculated and measured flux is better for the sand beach than for the gravel beach, and better for uprush than for backwash. For the sand beach there is good agreement between calculated and measured total uprush and total backwash sediment volumes. The agreement is less good for the gravel beach, for which calculated and measured uprush volumes show a similar trend but the calculated backwash volumes over-estimate the (negligible) volumes observed in the experiments. Field experiments investigating swash hydrodynamics and sediment dynamics have developed substantially over the last two decades in terms of the sophistication of the instruments deployed and the degree to which detailed processes are captured by the measurements. Regarding sediment flux, sediment trapping has been used to measure total uprush and total backwash transport volumes (Hughes et al., 1997;Masselink and Hughes, 1998;Austin & Masselink, 2006;Masselink et al., 2009) and high-resolution bed elevation measurements across the swash zone have been used to obtain net sediment transport volumes for individual swash events (e.g. Blenkinsopp et al., 2011). These measurements are extremely valuable in terms of quantifying sediment fluxes and morphological change for swash events in the field. However, they do not provide a complete picture since they reveal little (in the case of traps) or nothing (in the case of bed elevation measurements) of the sediment flux during a swash event. In principle, measurements of intra-swash sediment flux can be obtained from co-located measurements of velocities and concentrations, but obtaining these measurements sufficiently accurately over the complete water column to give total sediment flux...

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Intra-swash hydrodynamics and sediment flux for dambreak swash on coarse-grained beaches

O’Donoghue

Kikkert

Pokrajac

et al. 2016

Coastal Engineering

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“…Tsunami waves are generated by large-scale underwater disturbances, such as seabed displacements triggered by seismic activity, volcanic eruptions, underwater landslides, underwater explosions, or meteorite impacts with the ocean (Bourgeois et al, 1988;Hills and Goda, 1998;Bryant, 2001;Gedik et al, 2005;Ramachandran et al, 2005;Rasheed et al, 2006). In the Pacific Ocean, tsunamis are a relatively common phenomenon, given the high frequency of earthquakes in this area.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Tsunamigenic incisions produced by the December 2004 earthquake along the coasts of Thailand, Indonesia and Sri Lanka

Fagherazzi

2008

Geomorphology

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“…In Aceh the tsunami impact was massive in terms of wave height as well as velocity and the water masses on the beach front have exerted an immense pressure on sand deposits (cf. Gedik et al 2005, Heller et al 2005. In many areas entire beaches and sand spits were washed away (Fig.…”

Section: Mangrove Swampsmentioning

confidence: 99%

The 2004 Tsunami in Aceh and Southern Thailand: Coastal Ecosystem Services, Damages and Resilience

Cochard¹

2011

The Tsunami Threat - Research and Technology

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Laboratory investigation on tsunami run-up

Cited by 60 publications

References 20 publications

Intra-swash hydrodynamics and sediment flux for dambreak swash on coarse-grained beaches

Intra-swash hydrodynamics and sediment flux for dambreak swash on coarse-grained beaches

Tsunamigenic incisions produced by the December 2004 earthquake along the coasts of Thailand, Indonesia and Sri Lanka

The 2004 Tsunami in Aceh and Southern Thailand: Coastal Ecosystem Services, Damages and Resilience

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