Marine sediment transport

Vries, Sierd de; Wengrove, Meagan; Bosboom, J.

doi:10.1016/b978-0-08-102927-5.00009-6

Cited by 4 publications

(3 citation statements)

References 48 publications

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“…On coastal beaches, waves are the main forces that drive sediment transport in the breaker zone, then shaping beach morphology (Komar, 1998;de Vries et al, 2020;Short and Jackson, 2022). When waves propagate from deep water to nearshore, they will finally break on the beach after shoaling and surfing process.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Numerical models (such as UNIBEST CL +, LITPACK and GENESIS) are also developed to provide elaborate estimations of cumulative LST (de Vries et al, 2020). These models incorporate the processes of bedload transport and the complex dependencies between grain size, local wave and current energy (de Vries et al, 2020). However, some of wave and current forcing processes are simplified in these formulations or models, leading to uncertainties in estimating the amount of net LST at arbitrary locations.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Decadal evolution of a sandy beach adjacent to a river mouth under natural drivers and human impacts

Liu,

Cai,

et al. 2024

Front. Mar. Sci.

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As escalating environmental pressures threaten the world’s beaches, understanding the driving factors influencing their geomorphological changes is of critical global importance. This study focuses on the morphological changes of Sigeng beach adjacent to Changhua River Mouth in Hainan Island, China through decadal monitoring of shoreline and profile topography and tries to illuminate the natural and anthropogenic factors that drove geomorphological changes. The results showed that Sigeng beach undergone significant changes between 2008 and 2024, with notable accretion at the northernmost and southernmost and general erosion at other sections. The shoreline change rates ranged between -18.4 m/yr and 13.0 m/yr, with the average rate of -1.9 m/yr, indicating overall erosion. The net longshore sediment transport (LST) rates along Sigeng beach was estimated through the combination of the cross-shore (profile) and longshore (shoreline) changes. The overall direction of net LST along the beach were southward, except for the northern section where the direction was northward due to the diffraction of NE waves by the long sand spit at the northernmost. The net LST rates at each profile varied from 0.8×104 m3/yr to 3.5×104 m3/yr. The main factors controlling Sigeng beach evolution, including seasonal wave action and reduction in fluvial sediment load, followed by sand spit and coastal structures, typhoon events, aeolian transport, and sea level rise, were discussed. Subsequently, adaptive protection measures, including beach nourishment, accompanied with groin system or multiple detached breakwaters were proposed to combat with beach erosion. The analysis presented in this study is helpful to understand the morphodynamics and to predict the future change of beaches.

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Decadal evolution of a sandy beach adjacent to a river mouth under natural drivers and human impacts

Liu,

Cai,

et al. 2024

Front. Mar. Sci.

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“…The capability to measure SWH in the coastal zone even closer to the coast is in high demand, e.g. for studying nearshore effects such as wave energy transformation (Lippmann et al, 1996;Contardo et al, 2018), sediment transport (Elfrink and Baldock, 2002;Chowdhury and Behera, 2017;de Vries et al, 2020), dissipation effects (Wright, 1976;Wang and Kraus, 2005;Bryan and Power, 2020), coastal protection (Pilarczyk, 1990;Charlier et al, 2005) and safety (Arens et al, 2013). The need to approach the coastline even closer is also specified by the current draft of the mission requirement documents of the Copernicus Sentinel-3 Next Generation Topography (S3NG-T) team, which has defined the requirement to give SSH and SWH estimates up to 3 km and, as an enhanced target, up to 0.5 km off the coastline (European Space Agency).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Benefits of Fully Focused SAR Altimetry to Coastal Wave Height Estimates: A Case Study in the North Sea

Schlembach

Ehlers

Kleinherenbrink

et al. 2022

Preprint

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Estimating the three geophysical variables significant wave height (SWH), sea surface height, and wind speed from satellite altimetry continues to be challenging in the coastal zone because the received radar echoes exhibit significant interference from strongly reflective targets such as mud banks, sheltered bays, ships etc. Fully focused SAR (FF-SAR) processing exhibits a theoretical along-track resolution of up to less than half a metre. This suggests that the application of FF-SAR altimetry might give potential gains over unfocused SAR (UF-SAR) altimetry to resolve and mitigate small-scale interferers in the along-track direction to improve the accuracy and precision of the geophysical estimates. The objective of this study is to assess the applicability of FF-SAR-processed Sentinel-6 Michael Freilich (S6-MF) coastal altimetry data to obtain SWH estimates as close as possible to the coast. We have developed a multi-mission FF-SAR processor and applied the coastal retracking algorithm CORALv2 to estimate SWH. We assess different FF-SAR and UF-SAR processing configurations, as well as the baseline Level-2 product from EUMETSAT, by comparison with the coastal, high-resolution SWAN-Kuststrook wave model from the Deltares RWsOS North Sea operational forecasting system. This includes the evaluation of the correlation, the median offset, and the percentage of cycles with high correlation as a function of distance to the nearest coastline. Moreover, we analyse the number of valid records and the L2 noise of the records. The case study comprises five coastal crossings of S6-MF that are located along the Dutch coast and the German coast along the East Frisian Islands in the North Sea. We find that the FF-SAR-processed dataset with a Level-1b posting rate of 140 Hz shows the greatest similarity with the wave model. We achieve a correlation of ˜0.8 at 80% of valid records and a gain in precision of up to 29% of FF-SAR vs UF-SAR for 1-3 km from the coast. FF-SAR shows, for all cycles, a high correlation of greater than or equal to 0.8 for 1-3 km from the coast. We estimate the decay of SWH from offshore at 30 km to up to 1 km from the coast to amount to 26.4%+-3.1%.

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Flow and morphological characteristics in mining pits of a river through numerical and experimental modeling

Abdullahi

Ahmad

2022

Model. Earth Syst. Environ.

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Marine sediment transport

Cited by 4 publications

References 48 publications

Decadal evolution of a sandy beach adjacent to a river mouth under natural drivers and human impacts

Decadal evolution of a sandy beach adjacent to a river mouth under natural drivers and human impacts

Benefits of Fully Focused SAR Altimetry to Coastal Wave Height Estimates: A Case Study in the North Sea

Flow and morphological characteristics in mining pits of a river through numerical and experimental modeling

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