Maximum Breaker Height for Design

Weggel, J. Richard

doi:10.1061/9780872620490.024

Cited by 34 publications

(38 citation statements)

References 4 publications

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“…We considered five formulas for breaker ratio (McCowan, 1894;Weggel, 1972;Madsen, 1976;Hanson and Kraus, 1989;Larson and Kraus, 1989) and seven for breaker index (Munk, 1949;Le Méhauté and Koh, 1967;Komar and Gaughan, 1972;Singamsetti and Wind, 1980;Sunamura, 1982;Smith and Kraus, 1990;Gourlay, 1992). Formulas for breaker ratio variously include dependencies on floor slope, period, and deep-water wave length (L ∞ ) and deep-water height.…”

Section: Hurricane Wave Breakingmentioning

confidence: 99%

Retrograde Accretion of a Caribbean Fringing Reef Controlled by Hurricanes and Sea-level Rise

Blanchon

Richards²,

Bernal

et al. 2017

Front. Earth Sci.

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Predicting the impact of sea-level (SL) rise on coral reefs requires reliable models of reef accretion. Most assume that accretion results from vertical growth of coralgal framework, but recent studies show that reefs exposed to hurricanes consist of layers of coral gravel rather than in-place corals. New models are therefore needed to account for hurricane impact on reef accretion over geological timescales. To investigate this geological impact, we report the configuration and development of a 4-km-long fringing reef at Punta Maroma along the northeast Yucatan Peninsula. Satellite-derived bathymetry (SDB) shows the crest is set-back a uniform distance of 315 ±15 m from a mid-shelf slope break, and the reef-front decreases 50% in width and depth along its length. A 12-core drill transect constrained by multiple 230 Th ages shows the reef is composed of an ∼2-m thick layer of coral clasts that has retrograded 100 m over its back-reef during the last 5.5 ka. These findings are consistent with a hurricane-control model of reef development where large waves trip and break over the mid-shelf slope break, triggering rapid energy dissipation and thus limiting how far upslope individual waves can fragment corals and transport clasts. As SL rises and water depth increases, energy dissipation during wave-breaking is reduced, extending the clast-transport limit, thus leading to reef retrogradation. This hurricane model may be applicable to a large sub-set of fringing reefs in the tropical Western-Atlantic necessitating a reappraisal of their accretion rates and response to future SL rise.

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Section: Hurricane Wave Breakingmentioning

confidence: 99%

Retrograde Accretion of a Caribbean Fringing Reef Controlled by Hurricanes and Sea-level Rise

Blanchon

Richards²,

Bernal

et al. 2017

Front. Earth Sci.

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“…The data represented in Figure 5 shows the comparison between the theory and measured as well as the individual breaker height indices for each sample. This figure shows that for this flume set up the Weggel (1972) equations consistently overestimated the breaker height index for each wave period. The difference is likely due to the limitations of the instrument in that the TLS only measures each profile at 3.5Hz.…”

Section: Wave Analysismentioning

confidence: 79%

“…Where γ b is the theoretical breaker depth index, H b is the breaker height, T is the wave period and β is the bed slope. Weggel (1972) had derived the equations from laboratory data of monochromatic waves breaking on a plane slope, similar to the flume set up employed in this experiment. This provides an excellent basis for comparing the empirical results to the ones measured in this experiment.…”

Section: Wave Analysismentioning

confidence: 99%

“…In the next analysis the LiDAR data is used as a source for validation of an empirical method to obtain the breaker index. The following equations from Weggel (1972) are used as the theoretical basis for the analysis. Where γ b is the theoretical breaker depth index, H b is the breaker height, T is the wave period and β is the bed slope.…”

Section: Wave Analysismentioning

confidence: 99%

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Remotely Sensed Data for Wave Profile Analysis

Harry

Zhang

Colleter³

2012

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

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Laser scanning technology (LiDAR) is a form of remote sensing from which a water surface can be measured rapidly and accurately without in-situ sensors. An experimental setup for the measurement of waves in a wave flume is detailed with an analysis of various wave parameters. The experiments function as a source of reliable laboratory controlled data while the data analysis presents the range of research fields that the data can be applied to.

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“…Battjes (1974) used the Surf Similiarity Parameter (SSP) as a parameter in describing the breaking height of waves yet his prediction performs poorly against the measured dataset. While Weggel (1972) attempted to only predict the maximum wave heights, the correlation between the predicted data and the regression fitted line is excellent. Ostendorf and Madsens'(1979) relationship under predicted breaking wave heights.…”

Section: Performance Of Breaking Wave Height Predictorsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Remote Measurement and Prediction of Breaking Wave Parameters

Robertson

Nistor

Hall

et al. 2014

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

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The analysis of wave breaking in shallow water has been on-going for almost 150 years. Numerous research papers have been published that investigate methods to predict breaking conditions and the geometric characteristics of breaking waves. This study presents a novel, safe, and low cost method to extract breaking wave properties from irregular waves in the surf zone, using optical and in-situ measurement systems. Sensitivities studies on methods of measuring the breaking water depth are compared and the water depth at the wave trough depth, corrected for optical offsets using a still water correction of 1/3 wave height, is found to be exhibit the least variability. A new effective seafloor slope definition, based on individual breaking wavelength to depth ratios, was found to increase predictive ability over previously variable seafloor slope extraction methods. Collected field data is compared against established breaking wave height formulas with general exponential form consistently finding best correlation. An optimized breaking wave height predictor featured a root mean square relative error of only 1.672% against the measured dataset. Finally, the study of the geometric shape of the plunging wave vortex as a possible indicator for the breaking intensity of ocean waves has been ongoing for almost 50 years with limited success. The validity of using the vortex ratio and vortex angle as a method of predicting breaking intensity is examined. Through the first complete analysis of field collected irregular wave breaking vortex parameters it is illustrated that the vortex ratio and vortex angle cannot be accurately predicted using standard breaking wave characteristics and hence are not suggested as a possible indicator for breaking intensity

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Maximum Breaker Height for Design

Cited by 34 publications

References 4 publications

Retrograde Accretion of a Caribbean Fringing Reef Controlled by Hurricanes and Sea-level Rise

Retrograde Accretion of a Caribbean Fringing Reef Controlled by Hurricanes and Sea-level Rise

Remotely Sensed Data for Wave Profile Analysis

Remote Measurement and Prediction of Breaking Wave Parameters

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