Mesoscale evolution of a headland bay: Beach rotation processes

Thomas, Tony; Phillips, Michael R.; Williams, A. T.

doi:10.1016/j.geomorph.2010.06.018

Cited by 56 publications

(58 citation statements)

References 19 publications

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“…The role of the NAO in coastal morphological dynamics has been suggested by Masselink et al [48] to explain medium-term outer sand bar dynamics in the southwest of England (Perranporth). It was also suggested by Thomas et al, after analyzing beach rotation at South Sands Tenby in West Wales [49,50] and O'Connor et al [51] concerning long-term shoreline and ebb channel evolution in northwest Ireland. The same conclusion was put forward by Vespremeanu-Stroe et al [52] who showed that shoreline changes at decadal time scales were also driven by the NAO which controls the storminess on the Danube delta coast.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 81%

Observations and Predictions of Wave Runup, Extreme Water Levels, and Medium-Term Dune Erosion during Storm Conditions

Suanez¹,

Cancouët²,

Blaise³

et al. 2015

JMSE

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Monitoring of dune erosion and accretion on the high-energy macrotidal Vougot beach in North Brittany (France) over the past decade (2004)(2005)(2006)(2007)(2008)(2009)(2010)(2011)(2012)(2013)(2014) has revealed significant morphological changes. Dune toe erosion/accretion records have been compared with extreme water level measurements, defined as the sum of (i) astronomic tide; (ii) storm surge; and (iii) vertical wave runup. Runup parameterization was conducted using swash limits, beach profiles, and hydrodynamic (Hm0, Tm0,-1, and high tide water level-HTWL) data sets OPEN ACCESS J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2015, 3 675 obtained from high frequency field surveys. The aim was to quantify in-situ environmental conditions and dimensional swash parameters for the best calibration of Battjes [1] runup formula. In addition, an empirical equation based on observed tidal water level and offshore wave height was produced to estimate extreme water levels over the whole period of dune morphological change monitoring. A good correlation between this empirical equation (1.01Hmoξo) and field runup measurements (Rmax) was obtained (R 2 85%). The goodness of fit given by the RMSE was about 0.29 m. A good relationship was noticed between dune erosion and high water levels when the water levels exceeded the dune foot elevation. In contrast, when extreme water levels were below the height of the toe of the dune sediment budget increased, inducing foredune recovery. These erosion and accretion phases may be related to the North Atlantic Oscillation Index.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 81%

Observations and Predictions of Wave Runup, Extreme Water Levels, and Medium-Term Dune Erosion during Storm Conditions

Suanez¹,

Cancouët²,

Blaise³

et al. 2015

JMSE

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“…It has been estimated that Barton-on-Sea coastal erosion and coastal landslides are caused by its uneven and diverse hydro-geological nature and high tides and waves [57]. Thomas et al [58] revealed that variations in external forces may also be accountable for coastline erosion. Tenacious waves and sporadic storms provide substantial vigour to the coastal atmosphere, affecting sediment transport, distressing ecosystems, and damaging infrastructure Gopalakrishnan [59].…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Building Blocks: A Quantitative Approach for Evaluating Coastal Vulnerability

Kantamaneni

Aher

et al. 2017

Water

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Climate change and associated factors such as global and regional sea-level rise; the upsurge in high-intensity flooding events; and coastal erosion are pulse and press disturbances that threaten to increase landslides in coastal regions. Under these circumstances; a rigorous framework is required to evaluate coastal vulnerability in order to plan for future climate change scenarios. A vast majority of coastal vulnerability assessments across the globe are evaluated at the macro level (city scale) but not at the micro level (small town scale); particularly in the United Kingdom (UK). In order to fill this vital research gap; the current study established a coastal vulnerability index termed here as the Micro Town Coastal Vulnerability Index (MTCVI) and then applied it to Barton-on-Sea; which is a small coastal town of the Hampshire region; England; UK. MTCVI was evaluated for Barton-on-Sea coastal vulnerability by integrating both novel and existing parameters. Results suggest that the entire shoreline frontage (2 km) exhibits very high coastal vulnerability and is prone to various coastal hazards such as landslides; erosion; and wave intrusion. This suggests that Barton-on-Sea coastal amenities will require a substantial improvement in shoreline protection measures. In this study; GIS (geographic information system) coastal vulnerability and landslide maps were generated; and these maps can be used by the local authorities; district councils; coastal engineers; and planners to improve and design coastal management strategies under the climate change scenarios. Meanwhile; the methodology used in this study could also be applied to any other suitable location in the world depending on the availability of the data.

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“…The orientation of this spit-like beach usually indicates the direction of dominant littoral drift [20,21], though inlet channel geometry, wave refraction, and tidal flow can overturn the above perception [22]. The short-term (order of days to a year) changes of a headland should be carefully considered since they cause temporary alternations [23] and often return to their initial situation over time [24] following a period of relaxation [25]. Changes in a spit's orientation and shape result as a consequence of varying wave climate.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Long-Term Shoreline Displacements and Coastal Morphodynamic Pattern of North Rhodes Island, Greece

Gad

Hatiris

Loukaidi

et al. 2018

Water

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Shoreline evolution and seabed morphology changes depend on coastal geomorphology as well as hydrodynamics of the nearshore region. This study investigates the morphological evolution of the northernmost headland of Rhodes Island, Greece, using a method that combines historical shoreline evolution analysis and numerical modelling of coastal processes. The satellite and aerial imagery analysis under a GIS platform reveals that, since 1982, the overall surface area of the backshore has slightly increased, though in shorter period times, large variations have been identified. The part of the beach that is most prone to extreme changes is the spit-like formation at the tip of the headland. Wind-generated waves and induced currents are the main forcing factors that affect the shape and orientation of the spit-like beach. This spit-like morphology changes seasonally due to variations in the dominant wave regime. West sector waves cause sediment deposition at the eastern sector of the spit-like formation, whereas strong southeast wave events during the winter favor accretion at the west sector, inducing an asymmetrical shape. Thus, the analysis results indicate an annual balance in sediment transport.

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Mesoscale evolution of a headland bay: Beach rotation processes

Cited by 56 publications

References 19 publications

Observations and Predictions of Wave Runup, Extreme Water Levels, and Medium-Term Dune Erosion during Storm Conditions

Observations and Predictions of Wave Runup, Extreme Water Levels, and Medium-Term Dune Erosion during Storm Conditions

Building Blocks: A Quantitative Approach for Evaluating Coastal Vulnerability

Long-Term Shoreline Displacements and Coastal Morphodynamic Pattern of North Rhodes Island, Greece

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