Modelling of undertow by a one-equation turbulence model

Deigaard, Rolf; Justesen, Peter; Fredsøe, Jørgen

doi:10.1016/0378-3839(91)90022-9

Cited by 80 publications

(37 citation statements)

References 22 publications

Supporting

Mentioning

Contrasting

Unclassified

Order By: Relevance

“…Then, the roller model, including the roller energy gradients in the energy flux balance based on the roller theory of Svendsen (1984a,b), was employed in many studies related to wave-induced currents (e.g. Nairn et al, 1990;Deigaard et al, 1991;Stive and De Vriend, 1994;Lippmann et al, 1996;Reniers and Battjes, 1997;Ruessink et al, 2001). Van Dongeren et al (2003) extended the roller energy flux balance equation derived by Nairn et al (1990), and they obtained calculations of longshore current that were in good agreement with data from the DELILAH field experiment.…”

Section: Review Of Relevant Previous Workmentioning

confidence: 70%

A numerical model of nearshore waves, currents, and sediment transport

Nam

Larson

Hanson

et al. 2009

Coastal Engineering

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

ASCE, 1924ASCE, -1937. Three high-quality data sets from the LSTF experimental facility at the Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory in Vicksburg, USA, were used to evaluate the predictive capability of the model. Good agreement between computations and measurements was obtained with regard to the cross-shore variation in waves, currents, mean water elevation, and sediment transport in the nearshore and swash zone. The present model will form the basis for predicting morphological evolution in the nearshore due to waves and currents with special focus on coastal structures.

show abstract

Section: Review Of Relevant Previous Workmentioning

confidence: 70%

A numerical model of nearshore waves, currents, and sediment transport

Nam

Larson

Hanson

et al. 2009

Coastal Engineering

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

“…The most important of the above three-dimensional phenomena and the cause of offshore sediment transport is the undertow, which consists of a circulation in the vertical plane in which the near-bed current velocities are offshore-directed in the surf zone [Deigaard et al, 1991;Nam et al, 2014;Rakha, 2002]. In particular, the wave-averaged horizontal velocities are characterized by uniform distribution below the mean trough level and by a direction opposite to that of the horizontal velocity above the mean trough level.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Modeling Bed Evolution Using Weakly Coupled Phase-Resolving Wave Model and Wave-Averaged Sediment Transport Model

Gallerano

Cannata

Gaudenzi

et al. 2016

Coastal Engineering Journal

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

In this paper, we propose a model for the simulation of the bed evolution dynamics in coastal regions characterized by articulated morphologies. An integral form of the fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations in contravariant formulation, in which Christoffel symbols are absent, is proposed in order to simulate hydrodynamic fields from deep water up to just seaward of the surf zones. Breaking wave propagation in the surf zone is simulated by integrating the nonlinear shallow water equations with a high-order shock-capturing scheme. The near-bed instantaneous flow velocity and the intra-wave hydrodynamic quantities are calculated by the momentum equation integrated over the turbulent boundary layer. The bed evolution dynamics is calculated starting from the contravariant formulation of the advection-diffusion equation for the suspended sediment concentration in which the advective sediment transport terms are formulated according to a quasi-three-dimensional approach, and taking into account the contribution given by the spatial variation of the bed load transport. The model is validated against several tests by comparing numerical results with experimental data. The ability of the proposed model to represent the sediment transport phenomena in a morphologically articulated coastal region is verified by * Corresponding author. This is an Open Access article published by World Scientific Publishing Company. It is distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 (CC-BY) License. Further distribution of this work is permitted, provided the original work is properly cited. 1650011-1 F. Gallerano et al.numerically simulating the long-term bed evolution in the coastal region opposite Pescara harbor (in Italy) and comparing numerical results with the field data.

show abstract

“…Modèle vertical En tous points x où est évalué le transport, nous avons mis en place un modèle vertical en coordonnées , basé sur l'équation d'énergie cinétique turbulente, inspiré du modèle développé par DEIGAARD et al (1991). Les équations du modèle permettant d'obtenir la vitesse instantanée u(z, t) et la concentration instantanée C(z, t) sont : où H = h + est la hauteur d'eau instantanée, k l'énergie cinétique turbulente, l la longueur de mélange, t = sd le coefficient de viscosité turbulente égal au coefficient de diffusion turbulente, w la vitesse verticale, u 0 la vitesse orbitale des vagues, zx la contrainte moyenne sur une période de vagues et k = 1, C = 0,08 des constantes.…”

Section: 3unclassified

Observations et modélisation de la structure verticale des vitesses et des concentrations de sédiments en suspension dans la zone de déferlement

Morellato¹,

Chapalain²

2008

Xèmes Journées, Sophia Antipolis

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Résumé :Lors de campagnes réalisées en octobre 2006 et avril 2007 sur la plage de Pentrez, en baie de Douarnenez, nous avons cherché à quantifier la structure verticale des vitesses et des concentrations de sédiments en suspension dans la zone de déferlement. Ces mesures sont analysées et exploitées dans une démarche de modélisation numérique fondée sur les équations complètement non linéaires de WEI et al. (1995) (modèle FUNWAVE (KIRBY et al., 1998)) couplées à deux modèles de transport. Le premier est un modèle de transport global basé sur la formule de BAILARD (1981), le deuxième est un modèle vertical à fermeture turbulente. Le but de l'article est de déterminer la « meilleure » approche pour quantifier rapidement l'évolution des plages sableuses soumises aux vagues et à la marée. Abstract :During campaigns (October, 2006 and April, 2007) on the beach of Pentrez, in the bay of Douarnenez, we tried to quantify the vertical structure of velocities and concentrations of suspended sediments in the breaking zone. These measures are analyzed and exploited in a numerical modelling approach based on the fully nonlinear equations of WEI et al. (1995) (model FUNWAVE (KIRBY et al., 1998, combined with two transport models. The first one is a global transport model based on the BAILARD (1981)'s formula, the second is a turbulent-closure vertical model. The purpose of the article is to determine the "best" approach to quantify quickly the evolution of sandy beaches subjected to waves and tide. 145

show abstract

Modelling of undertow by a one-equation turbulence model

Cited by 80 publications

References 22 publications

A numerical model of nearshore waves, currents, and sediment transport

A numerical model of nearshore waves, currents, and sediment transport

Modeling Bed Evolution Using Weakly Coupled Phase-Resolving Wave Model and Wave-Averaged Sediment Transport Model

Observations et modélisation de la structure verticale des vitesses et des concentrations de sédiments en suspension dans la zone de déferlement

Contact Info

Product

Resources

About