Monsoonally influenced circulation around coral reef islands and seasonal dynamics of reef island shorelines

Abstract

Synchronous measurements of reef flat waves and nearshore currents were made around the perimeter of three coral reef islands in the central Maldives. Nearshore current velocities were shown to be tidally modulated in most instances with maximum velocities associated with lower tidal stages. Peak currents were consistently observed on the windward and lateral flanks of island shorelines (0.3-0.4 ms − 1 ). The relatively low elevation of reef surfaces and medium to low energy incident wave energy (Hs~0.2-0.3 m) accounts for low tidal stage peaks in velocity as this corresponds to the period when wave setup-induced current processes are maximised. Significantly, all nearshore currents were unidirectional and alongshore. The generation of unidirectional alongshore flow patterns results from island configuration which deflects flow and variations in reef geometry that control: spatial variations in wave-setup around the reef platform edge and at the island shoreline, which can drive alongshore currents; the presence of a nearshore moat that channelizes flow in the nearshore: and variations in reef geometry where topographic low points act as preferential drainage points. Results show that changes in monsoon conditions, that modulate wind and wave patterns from the west to northeast, can force substantial changes in reef platform and nearshore current flows, but that the degree of change is dependent on reef platform shape and position in the atoll. The circular study island was found to exhibit a near-complete reversal in unidirectional flow from northeast flow in the westerly monsoon to southwest flow in the northeast monsoon. However, the elongate and triangular shaped reef platforms exhibited more localised changes in flow patterns. Significantly, those shorelines that exhibit the greatest changes in shoreline currents correspond to the sections of coast that exhibit the largest morphological adjustments between seasons. Results provide significant insights for the morphodynamics of reef platform islands. In particular, the nearshore process regime is dominated by alongshore processes. Furthermore, reef platform shape and the magnitude of change in direction of wave approach to reef platforms provide critical indicators of the morphodynamic behaviour of reef platform islands.

Assessing Long-Term Changes in the Beach Width of Reef Islands Based on Temporally Fragmented Remote Sensing Data

“…Kench and Brander [15], and Kench et al [16] showed that reef island shorelines in the Maldives dynamically react to seasonal reversals in wind directions and to the resulting incidence of waves and nearshore currents with significant sand deposition at the leeward sides of the islands. The same conclusion has been drawn for Heron Island in the Great Barrier Reef (GBR [52]) and was confirmed for Raine Island, GBR [14].…”

“…Kench and Brander [15] and Kench et al [16] noted that seasonally unaffected sections of reef island shorelines act as sediment bypass zone and show only minor morphological change on seasonal scales. Consequently, transects within these sections of the islands appear to be most appropriate to detect long-term trends of shoreline change.…”

“…A shift in these parameters will cause a change in position of the nodal point and ultimately induce a rearrangement of the sediments [11,12]. Atoll islands thus are inherently dynamic and shoreline movement is controlled by a number of additional natural and anthropogenic influences that can result in erosion and/or accretion over different temporal and spatial scales ( [13][14][15][16][17][18][19][20][21][22][23][24][25][26][27][28], Table 1). …”

Wave and tidally induced processes on Rocas Atoll: geomorphological implications and future projections

“…Reef islands have shown to be highly sensitive to such fluctuations in the intensity and direction of oceanic waves (Dawson and Smithers, 2010;Kench and Brander, 2006a;Kench et al, 2009b). Substantial morphological changes may be observed through large reversals in sediment flux, in response to climate driven (monsoonal) changes on a seasonal basis (Kench and Brander, 2006a).…”

“…Although many studies focused on planform variations of reef islands (Ford, 2013;Houser et al, 2014;Kench and Brander, 2006a;Kench et al, 2014Kench et al, , 2009bKench et al, , 2006Rankey, 2011;Webb and Kench, 2010;Yates et al, 2013), vertical adjustments (erosion or accretion) can play a significant role on the overall mobility of islands (Beetham and Kench, 2014;Dawson and Smithers, 2010;Smithers and Hoeke, 2014) and may not necessarily imply in significant horizontal changes. This requires a three dimensional methodological approach of morphological changes where differences in elevation and volume can be measured and compared for different periods.…”