New oil‐gelling agents for cosmetics: formation mechanism of oil gels

Abstract

Summary New oil-gelling agents have been developed composed of a long-chain dialkyl phosphate (DP) surfactant and aluminium ion or multinuclear aluminum ion (MAI) which provide good oil-gel systems. One such gelling agent is the aluminum salt of DP (DP-Al) prepared as a precipitate by mixing DP with aluminum chloride in aqueous solutions. Addition of small amounts of the salt to non-polar oils led to hardening of the oil solutions at temperature below the melting point of the alkyl chain (Tc) of DP-Al. Results obtained by X-ray diffraction techniques and with scanning electron microscopy (SEM) revealed that linearly-polymerized assemblies of DP-Al expand in oils three-dimensionally, which suggests that the excellent stability of the gel systems arises from the highly ordered structure. The gelling agent of DP-Al offered the ideal rheological property to waxy cosmetic products such as lipsticks. The complexes of DP with MAI particles (1 nm diameter) of aluminum chlorohydrate, Al(13)O(4)(OH)(24)(H(2)O)(12)CI(7), provided the ideal thixotropic behaviour in non-polar oils. The DP-MAI particle complexes were found to interact weakly by cohesive forces which makes a highly ordered structure of the DP-MAI particle complexes. The DP-MAI particle complexes gave excellent stability and transparency to cosmetic products such as w/o creams.

Biopolymer-Based Structuring of Liquid Oil into Soft Solids and Oleogels Using Water-Continuous Emulsions as Templates

“…Recently, research on the fabrication, characterization, and applications of liquid oil-based functional soft solids and complex fluids (such as oil gels, oil encapsulates, and structured emulsions) has enjoyed a great deal of interest from colloid and material scientists representing diverse academic fields such as food processing, − biomedicine, , tissue engineering, diagnostics, and lubrication science. − Some of the potential industrial applications of structured liquid oil include encapsulation in drug delivery, − structuring in foods, − stability improvement in cosmetics, − lubrication in mechanical engineering, − and the templated synthesis of novel functional systems in material science. − Given the enormous potential of structured oil in different industrial and research sectors, it is important to identify practical and environmentally friendly processing and the use of raw materials from renewable sources to enable eventual commercial yet sustainable exploitation of oil structuring.…”

New gelification method for vegetable oils I: cosmetic application

“…More recently, the International Journal of Cosmetic Science has published an original work of Fukasawa etal. on formation mechanism of oil gels obtained with a mineral gelifying agent [4].…”

Formulations of hydrogels and lipogels with vitamin E

“…Optimization of the formulations tested here was based on previously published criteria for rheology, 13 organoleptic properties, 14 and biopharmaceutical properties and cosmetic quality 15 . We designed gel formulations 16 prepared from olive oil (lipogels), 17–19 and hydrogels that incorporated 2.0% tocopherol acetate 20 …”