Observation of nearshore crescentic sandbar formation during storm wave conditions using satellite images and video monitoring data

Dae, Jong; Jin, Jae-Youll; Jeong, Weon Mu; Lee, Byunggil; Kim, Chang Hwan; Chang, Yeon S.

doi:10.1016/j.margeo.2021.106661

Cited by 7 publications

(3 citation statements)

References 41 publications

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“…Similarly, Coco et al (2014) suggested that the duration of consistently large waves and their effect on beach morphodynamics made the event comparable to an extreme storm. In addition, Do et al (2021b) observed that a crescent sandbar system was fully developed from a straight sandbar system, during the longer second storm of ~6 day duration and maximum H s of ~4 m, rather than during the stronger first storm of ~2 day duration and maximum H s of ~5 m, which indicates that the duration of storm waves might play role in changing nearshore seabed morphology. Although direct comparison was not possible, the longer storm durations in Exp.2 than Exp.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 96%

“…Although the wave heights of the storm waves in Exp. 2 were lower than those in Exp.1, their durations were longer (Figure 6), which might be an important factor for nearshore morphological changes as well (Almar et al, 2010;Coco et al, 2014;Do et al, 2021b). For example, Almar et al (2010) analyzed the data of a double-sandbar system in Truc Vert Beach, France.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Numerical Simulation of the Locality of Erosional Damages by Storm Waves in Searching for Measures to Conserve Bonggil Beach, Korea

et al. 2022

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Coastal erosion caused by extreme storms can reduce the value of beaches. Under the scenario of climate change, the storm intensity may increase and the resulting severe erosion can lead to disastrous damages on the beaches. Therefore, it is crucial to find appropriate measures and adaptation plans to conserve the beach from storm attacks. In this study, numerical models were applied to analyze the dune erosion in Boggil Beach, Korea, occurred by Typhoon Tapah in September 2019. Two models were used as Telemac-2D was run in larger domains for producing forcing conditions. XBeach was then applied to simulate the 2019 dune erosion after validation using observational data from a post-event field experiment performed in 2020. The model results showed reasonable agreement with the observational data except for the overestimation of erosion that was likely caused by characteristic pattern of sediment that was a mixture of sand and gravel and the accuracy of model results decreased due to the existence of gravel. The results also confirmed the locality of erosional damage by which the dune erosion was severest in the southern part of the beach. This locality was caused because the water depth was steeper in this area, which kept the wave energy in this area higher than that in the northern part. The uneven distribution of depth was induced by natural and anthropogenic causes. Three cases of model tests were performed to determine an appropriate measure to preserve the beach from future storm attacks – two were to place a submerged breakwater (SB), and one to place a submerged groin(SG). Although the SBs could directly protect the shore from erosion in the lee of the SBs, they could cause additional erosions at unexpected seabed areas. Although the SG was not the best in protecting the beach from the dune erosion, it could minimize the side effect. This measure was also environmentally friendly by keeping the sediments within the coastal cell around the SG so that the beach maintenance could be feasible through replenishment. In addition, the SG could also save the initial cost by reducing its size, and would be more effective, if the recovery process considered, because the SBs would disturb the onshore sediment motions under milder wave conditions. The results of this study can be applied for decision-making to establish future adaptation plans from storm impacts in Bonggil Beach.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 96%

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Numerical Simulation of the Locality of Erosional Damages by Storm Waves in Searching for Measures to Conserve Bonggil Beach, Korea

et al. 2022

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“…Only a very few of these studies focused on regions with alongshore lengths greater than tens [25,27] or hundreds of kilometres [17,35]. Recently, studies that used optical satellite imagery to detect nearshore bars emerged [38][39][40][41][42]. The methods proposed in these studies, when combined with Earth observation satellites, enable the possibility of studying bars over large spatial scales with a temporal frequency of days [43].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Analysis of Interannual and Seasonal Nearshore Bar Behaviour Observed from Decadal Optical Satellite Data in the Curonian Spit, Baltic Sea

et al. 2022

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Long-term observations of nearshore bar behaviour are a vital component of coastal monitoring, management, and prediction. Optical satellite remote sensing enables the possibility of such observations over large spatial areas, but its full potential remains unexploited. This study assessed alongshore variability in cross-shore nearshore bar behaviour on a wave-dominated multi-bar coast of the Curonian Spit (south-eastern Baltic Sea) between 2011 and 2021, using satellite-derived bar data. Nearshore bars were extracted from a time series of PlanetScope and RapidEye satellite images with an automated GIS-based algorithm, previously proposed by the study authors. The cross-shore behaviour of a multiple bar system was analysed by adapting traditional bathymetry-based analysis techniques to satellite-derived data that included bar crestlines and images of multi-scale Relative Bathymetric Position Index (RBPI). The analysis was performed on 1071 shore-perpendicular transects. Multi-bar onshore and offshore migration rates were quantified on interannual and seasonal timescales. The results show that, on an interannual timescale, bars migrated offshore at rates up to 9.7 m/month, while the rates of onshore migration reached up to 11 m/month. During the months of low wave energy, bars moved offshore at rates up to 6.2 m/month, and during the months of high wave energy, up to 12.9 m/month. However onshore migration rates, during the months of low and high wave energy, reached up to 7.0 and 13.4 m/month, respectively. A complex empirical orthogonal function (CEOF) analysis was performed on RBPI-derived cross-shore profiles, and cyclic offshore directed bar behaviour was examined. For the first time, the net offshore migration (NOM) cycle with bar cycle return periods of 1.8 to 13.5 years was investigated on the south-eastern Baltic Sea coast. Bar cycle return periods increased and rates of bar cross-shore migration decreased from north to south along the Curonian Spit. Similar nearshore bar behaviour regions were identified using clustering analysis based on quantified temporal and morphological characteristics of the bars. Factors controlling alongshore variability in bar cross-shore behaviour were determined. The study results suggest that small alongshore variations in nearshore hydrodynamics, caused by the local wave climate and its interplay with the shoreline orientation, determine the morphological and temporal variability of the multi-bar system in the Curonian Spit.

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Experimental observation on wave propagation and geomorphological evolution in a sandbar-lagoon system

Cong,

Kuang,

Zheng

et al. 2023

Applied Ocean Research

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Observation of nearshore crescentic sandbar formation during storm wave conditions using satellite images and video monitoring data

Cited by 7 publications

References 41 publications

Numerical Simulation of the Locality of Erosional Damages by Storm Waves in Searching for Measures to Conserve Bonggil Beach, Korea

Numerical Simulation of the Locality of Erosional Damages by Storm Waves in Searching for Measures to Conserve Bonggil Beach, Korea

Analysis of Interannual and Seasonal Nearshore Bar Behaviour Observed from Decadal Optical Satellite Data in the Curonian Spit, Baltic Sea

Experimental observation on wave propagation and geomorphological evolution in a sandbar-lagoon system

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