Parameterization of geometric characteristics for extreme waves in shallow water

Chen, Hongzhou; Tang, Xiaocheng; Gao, Junliang; Fan, Guoxi

doi:10.1016/j.oceaneng.2018.02.067

Cited by 6 publications

(4 citation statements)

References 25 publications

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“…In Chen et al (2018a)'s study, three slopes (1/15, 1/30, and 1/45) are considered, and the value of the skewness ranges from 0 to about 1.5. The maximum skewness at a slope of 1/20 in the present study is close to that of Chen et al (2018a). In addition, there are the minima around the end edge of the up-slope and the maxima around the start edge of the down-slope for the mean asymmetry, respectively.…”

Section: Evolutions Of Wave Parameters Over the Smooth Breakwatersupporting

confidence: 75%

“…Some researchers have investigated the dependence of the geometric parameters on the nonlinear parameter Ursell number as waves propagated over shallow water (Pelinovsky and Sergeeva, 2006;Peng et al, 2009). Under different slopes, Chen et al (2018a) analyzed the same relationship as Peng et al (2009)'s; and in the meanwhile, Chen et al (2018a) also showed that the skewness is larger in the shallower water depth than that in deep water. When waves propagate over variable water depths, the nonlinear interactions are attributed to not only the geometric parameters but the energy transformation or spectral shape.…”

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confidence: 99%

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An experimental study on nonlinear wave dynamics for freak waves over an uneven bottom

Mao

et al. 2023

Front. Mar. Sci.

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The effect of the non-uniform bathymetry on the nonlinear wave dynamics for the freak wave is investigated experimentally, with emphasis on the interrelations between different nonlinear behaviors resulting from various geometric parameters and spectral analysis. Both the frequency modulation and the nonlinear phase coupling can be provoked by the decreasing water depth and weakened after the top peak of the bar, the nonlinear exhibition for transferring energy to high-frequency contents over shoal supports that frequency modulation can reflect nonlinear phase coupling well. The consistent change of the Hilbert energy spectrum and the bicoherence shows that the main nonlinear interaction in the process of wave propagation in shallowing water is quadratic nonlinearity. In addition, the geometric study is conducted to investigate the effect of the water depth on the parametric variations, the research results show that the mean asymmetry and kurtosis change abruptly when the wave approaches the top peak of the bar. As the wave propagates along the water flume, freak waves can be generated at various locations, however, they appear more frequently as waves propagate close to the shallowest water depth, and the maximum probability of occurrence for a freak wave can be up to about 1%.

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Section: Evolutions Of Wave Parameters Over the Smooth Breakwatersupporting

confidence: 75%

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confidence: 99%

An experimental study on nonlinear wave dynamics for freak waves over an uneven bottom

Mao

et al. 2023

Front. Mar. Sci.

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“…Katsardi et al (2013) [28] conducted experimental tests with unidirectional waves propagating over mild bed slopes (1:100 and 1:250) including breaking zones, and made extensive comparisons of wave height distributions. Nonlinear transformation of irregular waves propagating over sloping bottoms (1:15, 1:30 and 1:45) is discussed using wavelet-based bicoherence in [29]. Ma et al (2014) [30] studied spatial variations of skewness, kurtosis and groupiness factor for irregular waves over a bar (1:20) in shallow water.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Statistics of Extreme Waves in Coastal Waters: Large Scale Experiments and Advanced Numerical Simulations

Zhang

Benoît

Kimmoun

et al. 2019

Fluids

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The formation mechanism of extreme waves in the coastal areas is still an open contemporary problem in fluid mechanics and ocean engineering. Previous studies have shown that the transition of water depth from a deeper to a shallower zone increases the occurrence probability of large waves. Indeed, more efforts are required to improve the understanding of extreme wave statistics variations in such conditions. To achieve this goal, large scale experiments of unidirectional irregular waves propagating over a variable bottom profile considering different transition water depths were performed. The validation of two highly nonlinear numerical models was performed for one representative case. The collected data were examined and interpreted by using spectral or bispectral analysis as well as statistical analysis. The higher probability of occurrence of large waves was confirmed by the statistical distributions built from the measured free surface elevation time series as well as by the local maximum values of skewness and kurtosis around the end of the slope. Strong second-order nonlinear effects were highlighted as waves propagate into the shallower region. A significant amount of wave energy was transmitted to low-frequency modes. Based on the experimental data, we conclude that the formation of extreme waves is mainly related to the second-order effect, which is also responsible for the generation of long waves. It is shown that higher-order nonlinearities are negligible in these sets of experiments. Several existing models for wave height distributions were compared and analysed. It appears that the generalised Boccotti’s distribution can predict the exceedance of large wave heights with good confidence.

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“…Because relatively small incident wave amplitudes were adopted in these two papers, wave breaking did not occur over the fringing reefs. More recently, considering that the wave-breaking phenomenon were observed frequently due to relatively shallow water depth over fringing reefs (Chen et al, 2018a;Chen et al, 2018b;Dong et al, 2014;Thotagamuwage and Pattiaratchi, 2014a, b;Yao et al, 2018), Gao et al (2018b) further extended the studies of Gao et al (2017b) to consider wave breaking over the reef by adopting the incident short wave amplitudes that were much larger than those in Gao et al (2017b). However, the studies in Gao et al (2018b) were only confined to the lowest resonant mode; the effects of the fringing reef on the LF wave climates inside the harbor for higher modes under the condition of wave breaking over the reef are still unknown.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Numerical investigation on effects of fringing reefs on low-frequency oscillations within a harbor

Gao

Zhou

et al. 2019

Ocean Engineering

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Parameterization of geometric characteristics for extreme waves in shallow water

Cited by 6 publications

References 25 publications

An experimental study on nonlinear wave dynamics for freak waves over an uneven bottom

An experimental study on nonlinear wave dynamics for freak waves over an uneven bottom

Statistics of Extreme Waves in Coastal Waters: Large Scale Experiments and Advanced Numerical Simulations

Numerical investigation on effects of fringing reefs on low-frequency oscillations within a harbor

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