Persistent Unilateral Force Production Deficits Following Hand Injury in Experienced Climbers: A Reliability and Retrospective Injury Study

Orth, Dominic; Slebioda, Ninka; Cavada, Antonio; Bergen, Nikki van; Deschle, Nicolás; Hoozemans, M.J.M.

doi:10.1016/j.wem.2022.10.001

Cited by 1 publication

(10 citation statements)

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“…This is contradicted by evidence in two different longitudinal prospective studies (SQS: 14/32 and 19/32), showing that there were no significant associations between climbing time per month/per week and the development of a climbing injury (8,35). Five cross-sectional investigations revealed an increased risk of injury with increased climbing volume (6,21,22,36,37), in particular for recurrent ankle sprains potentially relating to chronic ankle instability (21), and injures of the wrist/fingers (22). Nelson et al, (2017) reported that the odds of sustaining an injury in people climbing every week were 2.49 times higher (95% CI: 1.27-4.90) compared to those who climb at most once a month (36).…”

Section: Climbing Volumementioning

confidence: 95%

“…Eight studies researched body weight and/or BMI (6,8,18,26,28,32,35,37). Of these, three prospective studies (1-3 years in length) with relatively high study quality scores (SQS) (17/32-19/ 32) found no association between body weight or BMI and climbing injury (8, 18,35).…”

Section: Body Weight and Body Mass Index (Bmi)mentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Of these, three prospective studies (1-3 years in length) with relatively high study quality scores (SQS) (17/32-19/ 32) found no association between body weight or BMI and climbing injury (8, 18,35). Additionally, three cross-sectional studies also showed no associated risk of climbing injury with BMI (26,28,37), whilst one cross-sectional study with a study quality score of 16/32 did indicate increased risk of injury with increased BMI (6). Furthermore, a single study determined that increased BMI was associated with a higher risk of hand injuries, although the data was cross-sectional (SQS: 14/32) (32).…”

Section: Body Weight and Body Mass Index (Bmi)mentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Eight studies measured climbing volume in some form, as a potential risk factor for injury (6,8,21,22,(35)(36)(37)48). A single 5-year prospective study with a relatively high SQS (18/32) suggested that hours of training per week and training units per week were significantly associated with finger stress reactions (48).…”

Section: Climbing Volumementioning

confidence: 99%

“…Five studies identified older age as a significant risk factor for the development of climbing injury (6,8,22,40,41), whereby one of these studies was a higher-quality prospective study investigating upper extremity injuries only (8) (SQS: 19/32). Conflictingly, six studies (9,18,(35)(36)(37)46) including two prospective studies in boulderers (18) (SQS: 19/32) and a broad population of climbers (35) (14/32) found no significant relationship with increasing age and risk of climbing injury. Although, Lutter et al, (2019) only included a sample of four people in the 65 + years group (35).…”

Section: Age and Years Of Climbing Experiencementioning

confidence: 99%

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Risk factors and injury prevention strategies for overuse injuries in adult climbers: a systematic review

Quarmby,

Zhang,

Geisler

et al. 2023

Front. Sports Act. Living

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IntroductionClimbing is an increasingly popular activity and imposes specific physiological demands on the human body, which results in unique injury presentations. Of particular concern are overuse injuries (non-traumatic injuries). These injuries tend to present in the upper body and might be preventable with adequate knowledge of risk factors which could inform about injury prevention strategies. Research in this area has recently emerged but has yet to be synthesized comprehensively. Therefore, the aim of this study was to conduct a systematic review of the potential risk factors and injury prevention strategies for overuse injuries in adult climbers.MethodsThis systematic review was conducted in accordance with the PRISMA guidelines. Databases were searched systematically, and articles were deemed eligible based upon specific criteria. Research included was original and peer-reviewed, involving climbers, and published in English, German or Czech. Outcomes included overuse injury, and at least one or more variable indicating potential risk factors or injury prevention strategies. The methodological quality of the included studies was assessed with the Downs and Black Quality Index. Data were extracted from included studies and reported descriptively for population, climbing sport type, study design, injury definition and incidence/prevalence, risk factors, and injury prevention strategies.ResultsOut of 1,183 records, a total of 34 studies were included in the final analysis. Higher climbing intensity, bouldering, reduced grip/finger strength, use of a “crimp” grip, and previous injury were associated with an increased risk of overuse injury. Additionally, a strength training intervention prevented shoulder and elbow injuries. BMI/body weight, warm up/cool downs, stretching, taping and hydration were not associated with risk of overuse injury. The evidence for the risk factors of training volume, age/years of climbing experience, and sex was conflicting.DiscussionThis review presents several risk factors which appear to increase the risk of overuse injury in climbers. Strength and conditioning, load management, and climbing technique could be targeted in injury prevention programs, to enhance the health and wellbeing of climbing athletes. Further research is required to investigate the conflicting findings reported across included studies, and to investigate the effectiveness of injury prevention programs.Systematic Review Registrationhttps://www.crd.york.ac.uk/, PROSPERO (CRD42023404031).

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