Personalized skincare: from molecular basis to clinical and commercial applications

Abstract

Individual responses of human skin to the environmental stress are determined by differences in the anatomy and physiology that are closely linked to the genetic characteristics such as pigmentation. Ethnic skin phenotypes can be distinguished based on defined genotypic traits, structural organization and compartmentalized sensitivity to distinct extrinsic aging factors. These differences are not only responsible for the variation in skin performance after exposure to damaging conditions, but can also affect the mechanisms of drug absorption, sensitization and other longer term effects. The unique characteristics of the individual skin function and, particularly, of the ethnic skin type are currently considered to shape the future of clinical and pharmacologic interventions as a basis for personalized skincare. Individual approaches to skincare render a novel and actively growing area with a range of biomedical and commercial applications within cosmetics industry. In this review, we summarize the aspects of the molecular and clinical manifestations of the environmental stress on human skin and proposed protective mechanisms that are linked to ethnic differences and pathophysiology of extrinsic skin aging. We subsequently discuss the possible applications and translation of this knowledge into personalized skincare.

Skin biophysical properties including impaired skin barrier function determine ultraviolet sensitivity

“…4 In addition, the amount and type of melanin are the most crucial factor that determines skin complexion and sensitivity to UV exposure. 1,3,11,12 The Fitzpatrick skin phototype is also one of the most useful clinical criteria to determine UV radiation sensitivity, with the lower skin types being more susceptible to sunburn than other skin types. 2 the findings of a previous study that showed a significantly higher MED of the arm than that of the back.…”

“…In recent years, consumers are increasingly personalizing and selecting cosmetic products according to their skin characteristics. The differences in skin functions between individuals are the basis of this personalization 1 . In this respect, the levels of tanning and burning susceptibility to ultraviolet (UV) radiations also vary between individuals.…”

“…Several studies suggest that individuals with the lower skin type and lighter skin color have a lower MED, indicating higher sensitivity to UV radiations 7–10 . Melanin content is one of the main factors that determine UV sensitivity 1,11,12 . Because of the ability of melanin pigment to block UV photons, MED has been shown to have a significant positive correlation with melanin content 12 .…”

“…The differences in skin functions between individuals are the basis of this personalization. 1 In this respect, the levels of tanning and burning susceptibility to ultraviolet (UV) radiations also vary between individuals. UV radiations induce acute and long-term damage to the human skin, including erythema (sunburn), pigmentation (tanning), suppression of acquired immunity, and enhancement of innate…”

“…[7][8][9][10] Melanin content is one of the main factors that determine UV sensitivity. 1,11,12 Because of the ability of melanin pigment to block UV photons, MED has been shown to have a significant positive correlation with melanin content. 12 However, individual UV sensitivity could be influenced by factors, other than skin color and pigmentation; and only a few factors are insufficient to explain the UV sensitivity of the skin.…”