Prediction of Wave Height Based on the Monitoring of Surface Wind

Wind-Wave Relationship Model and Analysis of Typhoon Wave Fields in the South China Sea From HY-2A Satellite Observations

“…Researchers have studied the wave spectrum since the midtwentieth century and have attempted to build a simple correlation between wave height and wind speed for ocean wind wave forecasting [10,11]. Many wind-wave models have been proposed based on empirical relationships between the present state of the sea, expected wind conditions, and direction of wave propagation [12][13][14][15][16][17], for example, the pioneering work of the Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP) derives a wave spectrum model [13] which have been tested to predict wave height from local wind fields [18].…”

A Statistical Approach for Wave-Height Forecast Based on Spatiotemporal Variation of Surface Wind

“…Statistical models for dealing with measurements of long-term variations in wave height have been considered mainly from two perspectives: nonstationarity (e.g., Scheffner and Borgman (1992), Athanassoulis and Stefanakos (1995), Guedes Soares and Ferreira (1996)) and nonlinearity (e.g., Scotto and Guedes Soares (2000)). On the other hand, statistical methods for modeling wave height that take into account changes in wind speed and wind direction have also been considered (e.g., Hokimoto and Shimizu (2008), Hokimoto (2012)). However, adequate statistical considerations of whether or not the use of spatiotemporal wind motion is an effective method for expressing and forecasting changes in wave height have not yet been undertaken.…”