Process-based one-dimensional model for cyclic longshore bar evolution

Kuriyama, Yoshiaki

doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2011.12.001

Cited by 30 publications

(22 citation statements)

References 35 publications

Supporting

Mentioning

Contrasting

Unclassified

Order By: Relevance

“…Yet, they struggle to simulate the onshore migration of a shallow sandbar (e.g. Van Maanen et al, 2008) which can be attributed to the absence of acceleration-skewness induced transport (Hoefel and Elgar, 2003;Kuriyama, 2012). It is therefore hypothesized that acceleration-skewness induced sediment transport is crucial to onshore sandbar migration and that models ignoring this process succeed in simulating onshore bar migration through an overestimation of the velocity-skewness induced sediment transport rates.…”

Section: Sediment Transportmentioning

confidence: 93%

See 1 more Smart Citation

Process-based modeling of cross-shore sandbar behavior

Dubarbier

Castelle

Marieu

et al. 2015

Coastal Engineering

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Section: Sediment Transportmentioning

confidence: 93%

“…Roelvink and Stive, 1989;Ruessink et al, 2007;Kuriyama, 2012;Walstra et al, 2012). The latter have recently succeeded in simulating surfzone sandbar profile evolution on timescales of days and weeks Ruggiero et al, 2009) to years (Kuriyama, 2012;Walstra et al, 2012) with reasonable accuracy. However, a number of model limitations remain.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 96%

Process-based modeling of cross-shore sandbar behavior

Dubarbier

Castelle

Marieu

et al. 2015

Coastal Engineering

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

“…De plus, l'utilisation de ces modèles pour des simulations à l'échelle annuelle ou interannuelle est encore utopique à l'heure actuelle, du fait des temps de calcul et surtout parce que l'accumulation dans le temps des erreurs de ces modèles très non-linéaires conduit à des évolutions morphologiques complètement fantaisistes à moyen terme. Des résultats satisfaisants ont été obtenus récemment pour l'évolution du profil de plage sur des échelles de temps de quelques heures à quelques mois (KURIYAMA, 2012), cependant ces modèles ne sont actuellement pas capables de simuler l'évolution de la plage aérienne, en particulier du fait qu'ils ne prennent pas en compte les processus de jet de rive. C'est en partant de ce constat qu'un grand nombre de modèles d'évolution du trait de côte basés sur des lois de comportement ont été développés récemment, la physique fine du système étant filtrée et directement englobée dans le comportement à grande échelle.…”

Section: Introductionunclassified

Application d’un modèle d’équilibre dynamique du trait de côte à une plage méso à macrotidale soumise aux houles très énergétiques

Marieu

Castelle²,

Bujan³

2014

XIIIèmes JNGCGC Dunkerque

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

“…Birkemeier, 1984;Larson & Kraus, 1992), Hasaki, Japan (e.g. Banno & Kuriyama, 2014;Kuriyama, 2012) or Narrabeen, Australia (e.g. Harley et al, 2011;Wright & Short, 1984) become very valuable.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Beach recovery and studies in accretive sediment transport

Shimamoto¹

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Erosion has been a focal point in sediment transport research while sediment accretion has been neglected until recent times. This thesis addresses some components of accretive sediment transport through modelling and new experimental measurements.The existing Grab and Dump model (Nielsen, 1988), a simple sediment transport model over rippled beds, is generalised to reflect a wider range of flow conditions, including acceleration skewed flows, boundary layer streaming, sheet flows, and cases with superimposed current. The revised model is compared to another semi-empirical sediment transport model and is found to have similar predictive abilities for small scale laboratory data. The results show that there are limitations to the model and more work is required to accommodate flows with no acceleration skewness and under the sheet flow regime.The local approximation method for non-linear irregular waves (Nielsen, 1989) is updated for converting surface elevation data into velocity, as many sediment transport models require velocity time series as input while surface elevation data are more readily measured and available. Data from three experiments are used to investigate this method, which was previously used to convert pressure measurements to surface elevation. The results are compared to the spectral transfer method, and found to perform similarly in most locations apart from near the breakpoint, where it performs better due to an additional multiplier which accounts for the increasingly negative timemean velocities closer to shore.New beach profile experiments were undertaken with an emphasis on the beach profile at equilibrium under random waves. The beach profiles were subjected to waves of various heights, with each case run until the profile appeared to be at equilibrium, for both accretive and erosive conditions. It was observed that the profile under accretive conditions behaves in a cyclic manner, where the outer bar is destroyed and recreated from the inner bar moving offshore, a process which also has a much longer time scale compared to the profile evolution under erosive conditions. The experimental profile measurements are used to evaluate an equilibrium type total sediment transport model utilising the relationship between the dimensionless fall velocity parameter and cross-shore bulk sediment transport proposed by Baldock et al. (2011). The model is applied to both laboratory and field measurements, and compared to an existing equilibrium shoreline model. The model is found to perform well under laboratory conditions where the profiles reach equilibrium but faces limitations with field measurements, which is an area for future work.ii Declaration by author Contributions by others to the thesisNo contribution by others. Statement of parts of the thesis submitted to qualify for the award of another degreeNone.iv

show abstract

Process-based one-dimensional model for cyclic longshore bar evolution

Cited by 30 publications

References 35 publications

Process-based modeling of cross-shore sandbar behavior

Process-based modeling of cross-shore sandbar behavior

Application d’un modèle d’équilibre dynamique du trait de côte à une plage méso à macrotidale soumise aux houles très énergétiques

Beach recovery and studies in accretive sediment transport

Contact Info

Product

Resources

About