Rational design of O/W nanoemulsions based on the surfactant dodecyldiglyceryl ether using the normalized HLD concept and the formulation-composition map

Delforce, Lucie; Ontiveros, Jesús F.; Nardello‐Rataj, Véronique; Aubry, Jean‐Marie

doi:10.1016/j.colsurfa.2023.131679

Cited by 6 publications

(6 citation statements)

References 35 publications

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“…The measurement of surface and interfacial tension provides valuable information on the stability of cosmetic products, mainly related to the kinetics of surfactants at the interface. The decrease in surface tension has been linked to properties such as foamability and detergency, which are significant in various industry applications [146,147]. This is important when designing a product as these characteristics will affect consumer acceptance.…”

Section: Surface and Interfacial Tensionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Meta-Analysis and Analytical Methods in Cosmetics Formulation: A Review

Rico,

Mazabel,

Egurrola

et al. 2023

Cosmetics

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The ever-evolving cosmetic industry requires advanced analytical techniques to explore, understand, and optimize product performance at nano, micro, and macroscopic levels. Nowadays, these insights are crucial for translating microstructure behavior into macroscopic properties. This knowledge is essential to formulate products with a lower carbon footprint and a higher sustainability profile, incorporating, at the same time, natural or biobased raw materials. These raw materials may present challenges for formulators and analytical scientists due to either an inferior performance when compared to their fossil-derived counterparts or higher costs. This comprehensive review covers a spectrum of analytical methodologies employed in cosmetic formulation, including chromatographic analyses, olfactometry, and electronic nose technology. The characterization of product stability involving assessing parameters such as droplet size, zeta potential, viscosity, analytical centrifugation, surface tension, and interfacial tension are also explored. The discussion in this paper extends to the role of rheology in understanding the molecular structure and behavioral dynamics of cosmetic samples. This review concludes with an overview of colorimetric analysis, a crucial aspect related to consumer perception, followed by a discussion on the challenges and opportunities associated with using meta-analysis methodologies in cosmetics. The formulation of cosmetics employing biobased feedstocks is included, highlighting the evolving landscape of cosmetic science and the integration of sustainable practices. This review stands at the interface between a meta-analysis of cosmetics and product performance, which is attained through a detailed examination of each analytical method. The know-how shared serves as a valuable resource for formulators, researchers, and industry professionals for real-world applications in the analytical field of cosmetics formulation.

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Section: Surface and Interfacial Tensionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Meta-Analysis and Analytical Methods in Cosmetics Formulation: A Review

Rico,

Mazabel,

Egurrola

et al. 2023

Cosmetics

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“…These include methods to determine the optimum formulation and to measure the SCP (also called γ or β) in the Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Deviation (HLD) correlation or the Phase Inversion Temperature PIT-slope parameter (Aubry et al, 2020;Salager et al, 2020). Such parameters also enable tuning properties to formulate emulsions for specific applications (Delforce et al, 2023).…”

Section: Sectionsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Advantages and limitations of different methods to determine the optimum formulation in surfactant–oil–water systems: A review

Marquez,

Ontiveros,

Barrios

et al. 2023

J Surfact & Detergents

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The optimum formulation in a surfactant–oil–water (SOW) system is defined as the physicochemical situation at which the surfactant adsorbed at the interface exhibits exactly equal interactions for both oil and water. Identifying the optimum formulation of SOW systems is crucial in various industrial applications, ranging from pharmaceuticals to cosmetics and to petroleum issues like dehydration and enhanced oil recovery. Multiple techniques are available to identify the optimum formulation, often with its own advantages and limitations. In this comprehensive review, we provide an in‐depth analysis of the systematic use of formulation scans to identify the optimum formulation in SOW systems. We critically assess different methods, including conventional ones, such as phase behavior observation, determination of the minimum interfacial tension from equilibrated systems, and the localization of the minimum emulsion stability using formulation scans. We also mention a new promising technique that can be applied in practice, such as oscillating spinning drop interfacial rheology (OSDIR) as well as others that allow an understanding of some structural features of the domains present in the surfactant‐rich phase in SOW systems. Among these methods, dynamic light scattering (DLS), small angle scattering (SAXS and SANS), nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR), X‐ray microcomputed tomography (Micro‐CT), and differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), can be found in the literature. Finally, we discuss potentially unusual behaviors that can appear in complex systems, thus providing guidance on the selection of the most suitable method tailored to the specific application.

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“…[19] Similar surfactants such as diglycerol fatty acid esters are able to form LC at low concentration, [20] and were reported by Shrestha et al as good foam stabilizers. [16] C 12 Gly 2 has been reported as an effective solubilizing agent forming Winsor III microemulsions at low concentration and as a promising emulsifying agent [19,21] but to our knowledge, its foaming properties have never been described. Among other nonionic surfactants, such as polyethoxylated fatty alcohols (C i E j ) and alkylpolyglucosides (C n Glc m ), the strength of H-bonds was found to be of importance regarding foaming properties, [22] attributed to the influence on surface viscoelasticity.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 96%

“…The contribution of LC to surface elasticity couldThe CMC values and minimal surface tension were determined for C 12 Gly 2 and compared to those of the polyethoxylated fatty alcohol (C 12 E 5 ) and maltoside (C 12 Glc 2 ) homologous. The C 12 Gly 2 surfactant, previously reported as an effective solubilizing agent[19], or emulsifying agent[21] was investigated here as a foam stabilizer and compared with C 12 E 5 and C 12 Glc 2 .CMC were not correlated to either foam density or foam stability. Dilational parameters at CMC suggest slow bubble stabilization resulting in large bubble size but excellent foam stability, which was verified by foaming experiments by air sparging at 10 CMC.…”

mentioning

confidence: 97%