Reduction in the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation by topical N‐acetyl glucosamine

Abstract

Glucosamine has been reported to inhibit melanin production in melanocyte culture. It thus has a potential to reduce hyperpigmentation via topical use. Due to stability limitations of glucosamine, we chose to clinically evaluate the stable derivative N-acetyl glucosamine (NAG). Based on in vitro Franz cell testing, NAG is a good skin penetrant. In an 8-week, double-blind, placebo-controlled, left-right randomized, split-face clinical test, topical 2% NAG reduced the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation. In a second clinical study involving the topical combination of 2% NAG with 4% niacinamide, an agent previously shown to be clinically active, the effect on hyperpigmentation was greater. Both of these agents are well tolerated by the skin. This high tolerance coupled with relative ease of formulation and stability in solution make NAG, especially in combination with niacinamide, a suitable cosmetic ingredient for use in skin care products dealing with issues of skin hyperpigmentation.

Review of Topical Lightening Agents

“…Multiple, double-blind, controlled, clinical trials demonstrated the clear benefit of 2% N-acetyl glucosamine in the treatment of hyperpigmentation secondary to sun exposure [28,30] but none secondary to inflammatory causes.…”

Niosomes as Carrier in Dermal Drug Delivery

“…N-acetyl glucosamine (NAG), which is an amino sugar that occurs widely in nature and essential component of dermal tissues, is well-known for its role as a precursor of hyaluronic acid, a key structural composition of skin. NAG shown to inhibit melanin production in melanocyte culture, thus has a potential to reduce hyperpigmentation by topical administration (Bissett et al, 2007). To improve NAG penetration into the skin Shatalebi et al encapsulated it into niosomes and investigated its flux across excised rat skin using Franz diffusion cells.…”

Melasma, Novel Treatment Modalities

“…It reduces melanin production and downregulates the gene expression of several intracellular cytoskeletal proteins that are involved in melanosome transport within the cell. In a double-blind, placebocontrolled split face study, 2% NAG proved effective (30). Although formulating a topical agent has been difficult due to its instability, a recent study has demonstrated the potential for niosomes for improved NAG localization to the skin [30,31].…”