Sand transport processes in the surf and swash zones

Zanden, Joep van der

doi:10.3990/1.9789036542456

Cited by 7 publications

(5 citation statements)

References 182 publications

(500 reference statements)

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“…The mean rotation angle for each run was found to match closely the local bed slope obtained from the bed profile measurements, which supports the validity of the transformation procedure. The velocity measurements were de-noised and decomposed into time-averaged (u ̅, w ̅), periodic (ũ, w) and turbulent (u', w') components; the latter component was used to quantify the turbulent kinetic energy k (van der Zanden et al, 2016).…”

Section: Data Treatmentmentioning

confidence: 99%

Suspended sediment transport around a large-scale laboratory breaker bar

Zanden

Hurther

Caceres

et al. 2017

Coastal Engineering

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Pre-print of manuscript published in Coastal Engineering. Full reference:Highlights:  Outer-flow and wave bottom boundary layer suspended sand concentrations and fluxes are measured around a large-scale laboratory breaker bar.  The suspended load is highest above the shoreward-facing slope between the bar crest and trough.  Near-bed reference concentrations correlate significantly with near-bed turbulent kinetic energy.  Depth-integrated suspended transport is dominated by offshore-directed current-related fluxes at outer flow elevations; the onshore wave-related transport is generally confined to the wave bottom boundary layer.  The contributions of horizontal sediment advection and of vertical exchange with the bedload layer (pick-up/deposition) are quantified to explain the complex intra-wave spatiotemporal behavior of near-bed suspended sediment concentrations.

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Section: Data Treatmentmentioning

confidence: 99%

Suspended sediment transport around a large-scale laboratory breaker bar

Zanden

Hurther

Caceres

et al. 2017

Coastal Engineering

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“…Interacting factors such as bathymetry, coastline typology, presence or absence of sea and land breezes, waves, etc., concur in making the stranding processes complex. The dominant hydrodynamics in coastal waters controlling the transport of plastic objects in swash and surf zones differ significantly from the hydrodynamics occurring in the open ocean [ 40 , 41 ]. The restraining effect of a near-coastal boundary or shallow bottom topography may affect the drift response to local wind forcing [ 42 ].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Marine Litter Tracking System: A Case Study with Open-Source Technology and a Citizen Science-Based Approach

Merlino

Locritani

Guarnieri

et al. 2023

Sensors

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It is well established that most of the plastic pollution found in the oceans is transported via rivers. Unfortunately, the main processes contributing to plastic and debris displacement through riparian systems is still poorly understood. The Marine Litter Drifter project from the Arno River aims at using modern consumer software and hardware technologies to track the movements of real anthropogenic marine debris (AMD) from rivers. The innovative “Marine Litter Trackers” (MLT) were utilized as they are reliable, robust, self-powered and they present almost no maintenance costs. Furthermore, they can be built not only by those trained in the field but also by those with no specific expertise, including high school students, simply by following the instructions. Five dispersion experiments were successfully conducted from April 2021 to December 2021, using different types of trackers in different seasons and weather conditions. The maximum distance tracked was 2845 km for a period of 94 days. The activity at sea was integrated by use of Lagrangian numerical models that also assisted in planning the deployments and the recovery of drifters. The observed tracking data in turn were used for calibration and validation, recursively improving their quality. The dynamics of marine litter (ML) dispersion in the Tyrrhenian Sea is also discussed, along with the potential for open-source approaches including the “citizen science” perspective for both improving big data collection and educating/awareness-raising on AMD issues.

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“…Figure 9. Conceptual drawing of the cross-shore wave related processes (adapted from van der Zanden (2016) [27]), environmental parameters measured and the macrobenthic species identified as indicator species for the morphological features.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Eventually, the wave breaks at the seaward slope or crest of the bar, leading to a reduction in wave energy and wave height [26]. The turbulence induced by the breaking waves increases the amount of sediment in suspension [27]. After the wave is broken the wave continues as a surface roller in shoreward direction.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Benthic Species Distribution Linked to Morphological Features of a Barred Coast

Holzhauer

Borsje

Dalfsen³

et al. 2019

JMSE

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The composition of benthic species communities in the nearshore zone is closely related to the hydrodynamic and morphodynamic conditions. Sustainable management of the coastal ecosystem requires knowledge about the natural dynamics as well as human-induced changes on the ecosystem. To improve our knowledge of the benthic species distribution along a dissipative sandy shore with multiple breaker bars, an extensive dataset was collected in the nearshore zone of the barrier islands Ameland and Schiermonnikoog in the Dutch North Sea. From 2010 to 2014, every year, approximately 180 grab samples along 18 cross-shore transects were collected and analyzed for sediment characteristics and macrobenthic species composition. Mixed-effect-models and partial redundancy analysis were used to analyze the importance of morphological features (i.e., slopes, bar crests, and troughs) as an explanatory variable for the benthic species distribution. The results indicate that the morphological features in themselves explain three times more variation than the environmental parameters used. This demonstrates the importance of morphological features as a factor in explaining the distribution of benthic species communities in the nearshore. Detailed information on morphological features is easy to obtain from bathymetry maps or visual inspection. Incorporating morphological features in species distribution models will therefore help to improve sustainable management of our valuable sandy coastal systems.

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Sand transport processes in the surf and swash zones

Cited by 7 publications

References 182 publications

Suspended sediment transport around a large-scale laboratory breaker bar

Suspended sediment transport around a large-scale laboratory breaker bar

Marine Litter Tracking System: A Case Study with Open-Source Technology and a Citizen Science-Based Approach

Benthic Species Distribution Linked to Morphological Features of a Barred Coast

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