Seam Puckering as a Mechanical Instability Phenomenon

Zorowski, C. F.; Patel, Gayatri

doi:10.1115/1.3427705

Cited by 12 publications

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“…The first group is directly proportional to the tensile strain of the thread, which should be of negligible value [4,5]. The effect of the second group on seam pucker has been experimentally verified in previous work [11].…”

Section: A = Tjed^ and A = Tjibmentioning

confidence: 92%

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Dimensionless Groups in Textile Mechanics and the Stories They Tell

Amirbayat

1995

Journal of the Textile Institute

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Section: A = Tjed^ and A = Tjibmentioning

confidence: 92%

“…Thin fabrics, when sewn by long stitches, are always prone to puckering, as pointed out by many researchers and professionals [4][5][6].…”

Section: Significance Of the Dimensionless Groupsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Dimensionless Groups in Textile Mechanics and the Stories They Tell

Amirbayat

1995

Journal of the Textile Institute

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“…Particularly when sewing lightweight polyester fabrics with low shear and bending rigidity, and thin fabrics with high fabric density, the sewing thread .tension and stitch density are primary sewing pa~ameters for controlling seam pucker [8,12,14,21,22]. The main causes of seam pucker in lightweight polyester fabrics are fabric buckling on the seam line [24] and structural jamming resulting from sewing thread insertion [4, 17, 19, 20, 231. Seam pucker occurs when a sewing thread is overstretched during sewing. When the overstretched thread shrinks to the original length in the seam, puckering forms in the fabric as seam shrinkage [9, 10, i 3].…”

mentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Sewing thread tension and stitch length are related to the tension pucker caused by fabric buckling. Zorowski et al [24] derived the equation for tension pucker expressed by initial thread tension, initial sewing thread modulus, initial fabric modulus, fabric bending rigidity, and stitch length. According to them, the possibility of seam pucker tends to increase as the sewing thread tension and the stitch length become larger.…”

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confidence: 99%

Objective Evaluation of Seam Pucker Using Artificial Intelligence Part III: Using the Objective Evaluation Method to Analyze the Effects of Sewing Parameters on Seam Pucker

Park

Kang

1999

Textile Research Journal

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The new objective evaluation method of seam pucker reported in Parts I and II of this study is used to analyze the effects of sewing parameters on seam pucker with five shape parameters in this part of the series. The parameters of sewing thread tension and stitch length are varied. To measure needle and bobbin thread tensions, frames are modified with dial tension gauges, linear guides, and weights. Four lightweight synthetic fabrics are used for seam pucker experiments. The needle and a bobbin. threads are polyester. These experiments show that sewing thread tension affects the wave amplitudes on the puckered surface as well as the objective AATCC seam pucker grade, but has no effect on the wave frequency characterized by the number of wave generating points and the wavelengths. Stitch length influences wave frequency on the seam line as well as AATCC grade, but without influencing wave amplitudes. The effects of stitch length on the shape parameters are quite different from those of sewing thread tension. With the expanded information provided by the five shape parameters of seam pucker, the effects of sewing parameters on seam pucker can be examined in more detail. The new evaluation method could be instrumental in better

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“…When different fabric lengths are part of the same seam, the excess fabric can be a source of pucker. Patel [2J and Zorowski and Patel [7] examined seam puckering by considering the fabric to be a semi-infinite plate. They cast the seam behavior as the elastic stability of a compressed member supported on a nonlinear foundation which is discontinuous and depends on the final shape of buckling.…”

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confidence: 99%

Effect of Jamming on Seam Pucker in Plain Woven Fabrics

Schwartz

1984

Textile Research Journal

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Geometrical relationships between fabric and sewing thread are developed for lockstitch seams in plain woven fabrics. The tendency to pucker is associated with structural jamming within the fabric. Jamming increases with stitch count and decreases with thread size as reported in earlier studies.A seam is defined [5] as &dquo;a joint consisting of a sequence of stitches uniting two or more pieces of materials and is used for assembling parts in the production of sewn items.&dquo; The properties of an acceptable seam include strength, elasticity, security, stability, and appearance. In many cases, a seam possessing good mechanical properties will be unacceptable because of its appearance. In this case, the most common fault is an instability phenomenon known as seam pucker.Perhaps the most extensive experimental study of seam pucker is that of Dorkin and Chamberlain [ 1 ]. They listed the following five factors which they claimed cause seam pucker in an overwhelming number of cases:1. Different fabric layers in the seam are subject to different mechanical forces during seam construction resulting in unequal tensions during seaming.2. Fabrics with very different physical properties when combined in a seam show these differences as pucker in subsequent handling, e.g., laundering. 3. High sewing thread tensions combined with highly elastic threads cause buckling in the seam due to thread take-up.4. Jamming of the fabric structure due to the local introduction of additional yarns in the form of sewing threads can cause puckering. 5. When different fabric lengths are part of the same seam, the excess fabric can be a source of pucker.Patel [2J and Zorowski and Patel [7] examined seam puckering by considering the fabric to be a semi-infinite plate. They cast the seam behavior as the elastic stability of a compressed member supported on a nonlinear foundation which is discontinuous and depends on the final shape of buckling. They examined Dorkin and Chamberlain's third factor, high thread tensions. Using a strain energy analysis, they determined various buckling modes. They verified their analysis experimentally using woven monofilament screen wire to simulate fabric and wrapped elastic cords to simulate sewing thread.Taylor and Clarke [6] studied a range of threads and fabrics to determine the variables contributing to seam pucker. They found that smaller sewing threads produce less pucker and that puckering increases with an increase in stitch count. This paper examines the relationship between fabric structure, thread size, stitch count, and the tendency to pucker, presenting a geometrical analysis of Dorkin and Chamberlain's fourth factor, structural jamming. The objective will be to develop working relationships which relate to structural jamming and subsequent puckering in a typical seam. AnalysisFor simplicity, we assume that a seam consists of two identical fabrics held together by a type 301 lockstitch [5], illustrated in Figure 1. The stitch is assumed to be balanced and therefore the interlocking of the needle ...

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Seam Puckering as a Mechanical Instability Phenomenon

Cited by 12 publications

References 0 publications

Dimensionless Groups in Textile Mechanics and the Stories They Tell

Dimensionless Groups in Textile Mechanics and the Stories They Tell

Objective Evaluation of Seam Pucker Using Artificial Intelligence Part III: Using the Objective Evaluation Method to Analyze the Effects of Sewing Parameters on Seam Pucker

Effect of Jamming on Seam Pucker in Plain Woven Fabrics

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