Sediment Dynamics and Profile Interactions: DUCK94

Stauble, Donald K.; Cialone, Mary A.

doi:10.1061/9780784402429.303

Cited by 21 publications

(25 citation statements)

References 4 publications

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“…The eroded coarser material is deposited at the shore break, replacing the finer material, resulting in a layer of relatively coarse sediment at the shore break around x ~40 m. The preferential removal of fine sand leads to a further coarsening in the vicinity of the shore break. These results support the findings of Stauble and Cialone [] and the present observations. This response can be explained by the relatively short suspension time of the coarse material resulting in a short transport distance whereas the finer material is moved farther offshore as it lingers in the water column.…”

Section: Grain Size Sorting Processessupporting

confidence: 94%

“…Due to the semi‐diurnal character of the tide, the tidal elevation during the time of observation does not necessarily correspond to the lowest/highest tidal elevation of that day (Figure a). The general result showed a coarser grain size distribution in the vicinity of the shore break (Figures d and e) consistent with the observations of Stauble and Cialone [] and Guillen and Hoekstra []. However, as the shore break moves up and down the shoreface with the tide, the coarse patch also moves up and down the beach.…”

Section: Rex Field Observationssupporting

confidence: 89%

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Observations and modeling of steep‐beach grain‐size variability

et al. 2013

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[1] Novel observations of surface grain-size distributions are used in combination with intra-wave modeling to examine the processes responsible for the sorting of sediment grains on a relatively steep beach (slope = 1:7.5). The field observations of the mean grain size collected with a digital camera system at consecutive low and high tides for a 2 week period show significant temporal and spatial variation. This variation is reproduced by the modeling approach when the surf zone flow-circulation is relatively weak, showing coarse grain sizes at the location of the shore break and finer sediment onshore and offshore of the shore break. The model results suggest that grain size sorting is dominated by the wave-breaking-related suspended sediment transport which removes finer sediment from the shore break and transports it both on-shore and offshore. The transport capacity of wave-breaking-related suspended sediment is controlled by the sediment response time scale in the advection-diffusion equation, where small (large) values promote onshore (offshore) transport. Comparisons with the observed beach profile evolution suggest a relatively short time scale for the suspended sediment response which could be explained by the vigorous breaking of the waves at the shore break.

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Section: Grain Size Sorting Processessupporting

confidence: 94%

Section: Rex Field Observationssupporting

confidence: 89%

Observations and modeling of steep‐beach grain‐size variability

et al. 2013

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“…The d 50 at Hasaki and Egmond is cross‐shore constant at approximately 180 μ m [ Katoh and Yanagishima , 1995] and 265 μ m [ Van Rijn et al , 2002], respectively. For the Duck94 experiment, the median grain size was, on the basis of Stauble and Cialone [1996], implemented as indicated in Figure 7. The rapid d 50 increase around the low‐water line is associated with the presence of a bi‐modal gravel component along with sand size fractions.…”

Section: Observations and Model Setupmentioning

confidence: 99%

Modeling cross‐shore sandbar behavior on the timescale of weeks

et al. 2007

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[1] We compare predictions of a coupled, wave-averaged, cross-shore wavescurrents-bathymetric evolution model to observations of onshore and offshore nearshore sandbar migration. The observations span a 10-and 44-day period with onshore/ offshore bar migration at Duck, North Carolina, and at Hasaki, Kashima Coast, Japan, respectively, a 3.5-month period of onshore bar migration at Duck, and a 22-day period of offshore bar migration at Egmond, Netherlands. With best fit parameter values the modeled temporal evolution of the cross-shore bed profiles agrees well with the observations. Model skill, defined as 1 minus the ratio of prediction to no-change error variances, ranges from 0.50 at Egmond to 0.88 for the prolonged onshore bar migration at Duck. Localized (in time and space) reductions in model skill coincide with alongshore variations in the observed morphology. Consistent with earlier observations, simulated offshore bar migration takes place during storms when large waves break on the bar and is due to the feedback between waves, undertow, suspended sediment transport, and the sandbar. Simulated onshore bar migration is predicted for energetic, weakly to nonbreaking conditions and is due to the feedback between near-bed wave skewness, bedload transport, and the sandbar, with negligible to small effects of bound infragravity waves and near-bed streaming. Under small waves and conditions, when breaking and nonbreaking conditions alternate with the tide, the sandbar is predicted to remain stationary. The intersite differences in the optimum parameter values are, at least partly, induced by insensitivity to parameter variations, parameter interdependence, and errors in the offshore wave forcing.

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“…An approach that may be applied to differentiating GSD variability, while avoiding these challenges posed by probability density functions, is to apply some form of multivariate statistical technique, most prominently eigenvector analysis in the form of principal components analysis (PCA) (Syvitski, 1991;Stauble and Cialone, 1996;Roberson and Weltje, 2014). The premise underlying the application of multivariate statistical techniques is that GSDs contain a proportion of mass in each size class bin (Weltje and Prins, 2003).…”

Section: Grain Size Distributions: Data Constraints and Solutionsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Effective grain size distribution analysis for interpretation of tidal–deltaic facies: West Bengal Sundarbans

Flood

Orford

McKinley

et al. 2015

Sedimentary Geology

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This is an open access article published under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs License (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/), which permits distribution and reproduction for non-commercial purposes, provided the author and source are cited. General rightsCopyright for the publications made accessible via the Queen's University Belfast Research Portal is retained by the author(s) and / or other copyright owners and it is a condition of accessing these publications that users recognise and abide by the legal requirements associated with these rights.Take down policy The Research Portal is Queen's institutional repository that provides access to Queen's research output. Every effort has been made to ensure that content in the Research Portal does not infringe any person's rights, or applicable UK laws. If you discover content in the Research Portal that you believe breaches copyright or violates any law, please contact openaccess@qub.ac.uk. This is a PDF file of an unedited manuscript that has been accepted for publication. As a service to our customers we are providing this early version of the manuscript. The manuscript will undergo copyediting, typesetting, and review of the resulting proof before it is published in its final form. Please note that during the production process errors may be discovered which could affect the content, and all legal disclaimers that apply to the journal pertain. lithofacies; Sundarbans; Ganges-Brahmaputra delta. A C C E P T E D M A N U S C R I P T ACCEPTED MANUSCRIPT AbstractResearch over the past two decades on the Holocene sediments from the tide dominated west side of the lower Ganges delta has focussed on constraining the sedimentary environment through grain size distributions (GSD). GSD has traditionally been assessed through the use of probability density function (PDF) methods (e.g. log-normal, log skew-Laplace functions), but these approaches do not acknowledge the compositional nature of the data, which may compromise outcomes in lithofacies interpretations. The use of PDF approaches in GSD analysis poses a A C C E P T E D M A N U S C R I P T ACCEPTED MANUSCRIPT 2 series of challenges for the development of lithofacies models, such as equifinal distribution coefficients and obscuring the empirical data variability. In this study a methodological framework for characterising GSD is presented through compositional data analysis (CODA) plus a multivariate statistical framework. This provides a statistically robust analysis of the fine tidal estuary sediments from the West Bengal Sundarbans, relative to alternative PDF approaches.

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Sediment Dynamics and Profile Interactions: DUCK94

Cited by 21 publications

References 4 publications

Observations and modeling of steep‐beach grain‐size variability

Observations and modeling of steep‐beach grain‐size variability

Modeling cross‐shore sandbar behavior on the timescale of weeks

Effective grain size distribution analysis for interpretation of tidal–deltaic facies: West Bengal Sundarbans

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